Tech Tips for Land Rover Defender, Range Rover Classic, DiscoveryS

Here are a few basic maintenance tips to extend the life of your Disco, RRC, Defender.  All of the vehicles equipped with the lump (3.5/3.9,4.0/4.6) are prone to carbon buildup, and to sludge buildup.  The easiest way to keep either of these conditions from happening is

1.Doing an Oil and filter change every 3000 miles. 

2.Use only good quality premium unleaded fuel.  Land Rover dealers sell a fuel additive that is used every 7500 miles during factory maintenance.  I highly recommend using a fuel cleaning additive at least every 15k miles.  I have seen the rocker arms on a disco at 30k miles be so covered in sludge, that it took a chisel to get to the head bolts. Conversely, I have also seen rigs with over 100k miles look like a brand new engine. 

3.  Make sure to check your swivel housings for grease!  If you do your own maintenance, this is critical.  CV joint repairs are very expensive, and often times preventable.

Up until 1997, Land Rover used gear oil to lubricate the CV (swivel) housings.  The oil was leakage prone, and required changing every 30k miles.  Part way through '97, a change was made to using a new grease. This grease is a one time only service.  It comes in a tube that is enough for one side.  If you have not upgraded to this, or you aren't sure what is in your swivels, check at your next oil change. 

To check, and or service your swivels, you will need a 1/2 inch or 13mm wrench, and a 10mm or 11mm wrench and a container to catch the oil/grease.  A coffee can works well here. A spray cleaner, ie carb clean. And finally a tube of grease per side for refilling.

• Lift the front end of your Rover, place jack stands under the frame rails for support. 
• Turn your wheels all the way to the right for access to the right swivel housing. 
• Place the container under the tire towards the front edge. 
• On the top of the swivel housing, you will see a 13mm square plug.  This is the fill plug.  Under the swivel housing towards the front of the rig you'll see a similar, smaller plug angled to the front.  This is the drain plug.  Remove the fill plug, then remove the drain plug.  If gear oil is still in the swivels, it will run out over the the inside of the tire.  Gear oil is thinner than the grease so it should run out rather immediately. You may surprised how little comes out if it has been a while between services.  The grease will take longer to drain, and will have a dark gray color, and a consistency just slightly thinner than chassis grease.  If grease starts to emerge, replace your plugs.  If oil drains out, allow it  to finish,  give it about 10 minutes or so to be sure. 
• Reinstall  the drain plug. 
• Cut the top off of the new grease tube, make sure you wheel is fully turned out, and place the grease tip into the fill plug.  Squeeze the tube to empty it, and place all the grease into the housing.  It may take a little patience here, the reason the wheel is turned is to allow access to the actual CV joint.  The housing will block the fill plug, and thus block any grease from entry unless the wheel is turned out.  Empty the entire tube.\
• Replace the fill plug
• Clean off the grease/oil from your tire.
• Lower the rig and voila!  Your done!
  If you have leaking swivel seals and are brave enough to due to a little bolt turning let me know and I can post a how to with photos for anyone who wants to replace them.