What's the skinny on fire extinguishers?  I have a large ABC unit now that is a couple of years old.  I've stumbled across a couple of different types that claim to be non-damaging to engine components, as well as a few other pros/cons.  So, what is the best type of fire extinguisher to use in a vehicle?

Craig

Craig,

I have been involved with other 4x groups that required fire extinguishers as standard must have equipment to go on the trails. Chances are if your vehicle is well maintained and you keep all your hoses and such under the hood in prine condition you will more than likely use your extinguisher on someone else's less-well equipped outfit.

I have an ABC extinguisher in my vehicle at all times. If the gage on the unit is in the green you are probably ok but if it is a few years old you may want to replace it. The are not very expensive and good insurance.

I have often thought that the fire would do more damage than the stuff I put on it. Really don't think anyone is going to put out a gasoline fire with a little extinguisher. Stand well away and pray for rain.

Morris

These look really good. Kind of expensive, but good.

http://www.mygaragestore.com/detail.aspx?ID=1162

Alongwith being a machinist in the Navy, I was also a firefighter.

Halon is good, but if you want to not completely screw up your vehicle, Co2 is the only choice for an electrical fire. A class B fire would require PKP or a foam (AFFF) or a halon based extinguisher.

The sodium bicarbonate extinguishers (ABC) are great for extinguishing, but they are extremely corrosive.
A little fire extinguishing education:

Class A fire (wood, paper, cloth, anything that leaves an ash) - use water
Class B fire (fuel, gas, oil anything petroleum based) PKP, Halon or a foam (AFFF) based extinguisher is the wisest choice.
Class C fire (Electrical) - Use Co2
Class D fire (titanium, magnesium) Run, FAST

Co2 or Halon are the most non-damaging, but should be stored in such a manner as good evacuation of the vehicle is available incase of a non-scheduled deployment of the agent..

I hope this helps.

Dan, I'm wondering why you said CO2 was the "only" choice for electrical fires.  Is it actually better than Halon in some ways or was it simply available on deck.  I always thought Halon (or, whatever is most like it these days) was considered superior to CO2 for electrical, but significantly more expensive and thus cost prohibitive for many applications. Just curious since Peter and Craig have me thinking of putting a fire extinguisher in the cargo area in addition to ABC type I have in the passenger compartment...as a fellow Defender owner, ahem, these things are worth considering  .

As I said in my first post, I already have a large ABC.  I agree though.  Like a recovery strap, nobody should go wheeling without a fire extinguisher.

C

(Some content below borrowed from wikipedia)

I'll put it this a way; Halon is a chemical in which exposure can dangerous to us humans. Although not corrosive, it is considered good practice to avoid all unnecessary exposure to Halon 1301, and to limit exposures to concentrations of 7 percent and below to 15 minutes. Exposure to Halon 1301 in the 5 to 7 percent range produces little, if any, noticeable effect. At levels between 7 and 10 percent, mild central nervous system effects such as dizziness and tingling in the extremities have been reported^[1]. In practice, the operators of many Halon 1301 total flooding systems evacuate the space on impending agent discharge.

There is also a risk of toxic and irritant pyrolysis products, hydrogen bromide and hydrogen fluoride.

CO2 extinguishers contain carbon dioxide, a non-flammable gas, and are highly pressurized. The pressure is so great that it is not uncommon for bits of dry ice to shoot out the nozzle. They don't work very well on class A fires because they may not be able to displace enough oxygen to put the fire out, causing it to re-ignite.

CO2 extinguishers have an advantage over dry chemical extinguishers since they don't leave a harmful residue - a good choice for an electrical fire on a computer or other favorite electronic device such as a stereo or TV.

Halon, dangerous chemical and expensive - overkill really. Co2 - cheap and although precautions need to be observed while handling and storing it, most effective on electrical fires.

You decide.

And that my frinds is why, I love the smell of napalm in the morning............the horror...........the horror..........the horror..........

Heres a quick thought on chemical residue and possible damage from any type extinguisher use on your vehicle.

-If your rig was on fire...then its gonna have melted, warped, burned damage.  So to me if the extiguisher that you have will get the job done; that is put the fire out, then you have bought the right extinguisher.  Now if your rig still runs and can get you home, be thankful that everything is in working order and worry about the chemical residue when you get home and are replacing burnt and damaged engine parts.

-one more tid-bit: I'd suggest that for use in a four wheel drive vehicle, get a better/more commercial duty fire extinguisher like the ones found at Western fire safety in Ballard or AAA fire safety in Fremont.  These extiguishers typically have aluminum valve bodies and nozzles as opposed to the plastic cheapies found at your local ACE , Home Depot, or Lowes.  This will help to ensure a longer service life riding around in your truck.  Often the Fire Safety supply places have a huge selection of sizes as well, so that you can find one that will fit almost anywhere that you might want to mount one.  They also sell the heavier duty metal brackets as oppossed to plastic.  Another bonus is that the prices can be cheaper than online or automotive sources.

my 3 cents