Rich Greer
 New Member Posts:58
 | | 11 Mar 2006 05:11 PM |
| I'm ready for my first mod,(97 D1) and am leaning towards rock sliders. I have been looking at the Safari Gard and Rover Tyme ones, should I look at any others? | | |
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Craig Miller Posts:11799
 | | 11 Mar 2006 05:24 PM |
| slickrock Fabrication and Northwest Parts are both very good and look a lot better than the Rovertym sliders (which I have). You'll want some that stick out a little bit to help keep your doors off the tree/stump/rock that your sliders are sliding on.
The NWP ones are also one oiece making them a lot easier to install.
--Craig | | | |
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Chris Antonelli
 Basic Member Posts:124
 | | 11 Mar 2006 05:44 PM |
| I was thinking about the Northwest Parts ones when I get a bumper from them... just for reference, do the Northwest Parts sliders have sharp parts like the bumpers and need some finish work? | | | |
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Craig Miller Posts:11799
 | | 11 Mar 2006 07:39 PM |
| I don't have em, so I can't really comment. The ones I saw on Tyler Chilman's truck looked really smooth and very high quality, but I didn't inspect them closely. I'll see if I can get Tyler to create an account and post his impressions.
The Slickrock Fab ones have recieved nothing but positive comments from everyone who has ever reviewed them. He makes top notch stuff and is a nice guy to boot (So are the NWP people btw).
--Craig
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Michael Kronmal
 Basic Member Posts:421
 | | 11 Mar 2006 09:22 PM |
| I have the RTE sliders with holes for a HighLift. Its well made, well built, and the service is great. | | | |
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Rich Greer
 New Member Posts:58
 | | 12 Mar 2006 12:32 PM |
| Any problems with the "revit-nuts" that they (RTE) use at install? | | | |
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Michael Kronmal
 Basic Member Posts:421
 | | 12 Mar 2006 12:58 PM |
| Not really. If you've used rivnuts before, its easy. If not, practice a bit and always, always lube the installer between nuts. WD40 or silicon spray works fine, you just want to keep it from binding. | | | |
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Craig Miller Posts:11799
 | | 12 Mar 2006 01:26 PM |
| I didn't have any trouble either. Those nuts are only used to place the slider. Once it is placed, a whole additional set of bolts goes all the way through the frame and through the second piece of the slider. They don't support much, if any actual weight.
Here is what Tyler wrote about the NWP sliders. The sliders are very nice, good design, tough and I updated them with a fresh coat of Rhino liner paint to make the finish super strong. I have not done any major sliding on rocks with them, just a few bumps here and there, altogether very happy with them.
--Craig
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Mike Rupp
 Veteran Member Posts:1354
 | | 13 Mar 2006 04:26 PM |
| I've got the RTE sliders for my D1. I really dislike how they look not to mention how quickly they rusted. If you decide on the RTE sliders, do yourself a favor and get them bare and powdercoat them locally. I have no ideas about a powdercoater here, but by default they would be better than RTE's coater.
Slickrock makes some really nice sliders. They really follow the curvature of the doors much better than the RTE. | | | |
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Michael Kronmal
 Basic Member Posts:421
 | | 13 Mar 2006 05:26 PM |
| Or, jsut touch up as needed with flat back Rustoleum. | | | |
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Rich Greer
 New Member Posts:58
 | | 14 Mar 2006 10:12 AM |
| This is good stuff, next question. I have not spent any time looking at the "sills" were the slider attach, but it looks like the sill is a "box" type frame, yes? | | | |
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Mike Rupp
 Veteran Member Posts:1354
 | | 14 Mar 2006 09:15 PM |
| Mike, what I have a gripe with is the fact that RTEs sliders aren't exactly cheaper than any others that have much better powdercoating. My SG bumper has been scraped, banged, & generally beaten up and still looks great. My sliders are newer than the bumper but looks older than anything on my truck. | | | |
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Andy Berglund Tacoma, WA
 Veteran Member Posts:3453
 | | 15 Mar 2006 04:48 PM |
| rich-
in a word, "kinda". the sill that the sliders attach to are on the body of the truck and are a formed box. most sliders, like the NWP, don't attach directly to the frame, which is also a box section.
i have the NWP sliders for my D2 and i like them a lot. they stick out around 3" from below the bottom of the doors. i got my sliders bare and painted them myself. that way they're easy to repaint if needed. the other nice thing about NWP is that they're local so you save a bit in postage. btw, they're moving (reportedly) away from the PNW so no might be a good time to get 'em.
andy | | | |
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Rich Greer
 New Member Posts:58
 | | 27 Mar 2006 01:08 PM |
| Ok, first I would like to thank everyone for their input, I found it very valuable in helping me sort this out. I purchased some sliders from "Slickrock Fabrication" today, should be on my doorstep in a couple of weeks. Would the install be helpful to document for the web site? Thanks again! Rich | | | |
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Craig Miller Posts:11799
 | | 27 Mar 2006 01:53 PM |
| Excellent choice! You are going to love those sliders.
It would be fantastic if you were to document the installation. That way, the next time someone is considering the purchase of these sliders they can see what is involved in fitting them.
Consider writing it up in a blog. If you document the install in your blog (need to create one first), we can create a link to the blog entry in articles section when you are finished. This way you will have a running journal of the mods you've made to your truck (blog) and we can still include it in the tech articles without you having to write it up twice.
I'm looking forward to scratching up the sliders with you. :-) --Craig
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Rich Greer
 New Member Posts:58
 | | 27 Mar 2006 03:15 PM |
| I'm good to do the blog thing, I might need some hand holding thou. | | | |
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Craig Miller Posts:11799
 | | 27 Mar 2006 03:50 PM |
| Sure. I might write it up real quick as an FAQ too. :-)
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Rich Greer
 New Member Posts:58
 | | 30 Apr 2006 05:50 PM |
| Sliders are installed, Lori did all the wrenching, I just took pictures. She is already looking at armor for the underside of the truck. She is looking at southdown, I've created a monster!!!! | | | |
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