I've got just a little bit of rubbing under full stuff since I went to a wheel with less backspacing. I was considering putting the RTE extended radius arms on to help correct the rubbing (see attached photo) as well as help correct castor. I just found out that they are only extended by 3/8" though.

I'm not sure this will even fix my rub, and it also only seems to offer a partial correction for castor (I have a 3" RTE lift). Has anyone put these on? If so, any idea on before/after with regard to castor? Is the difference significant? It's a lot of cash for what appear I fear is going to be a very minor change.

Thanks,
Craig

Craig, assuming that the geometry of the extended radius arms is the same as before, the effect on caster would be neglibible let alone perceptible. The 3/8" extension might be just enough to get those tires away from the body.

Still thinking about those 285s?

heh heh... Yeah, the 285s idea has gone through my head a few times. If I go to them, I think I'd have to go to go to stock back-spacing to make them fit. I could probably fit 255/85s but they just look wierd to me on a D2 vs a D1. Either way, I've been happier than I thought I'd be with the combo of the 265/75s and the offset wheels. I'm probably just going to try and dial the truck in with this lift, tires, and wheels.

Steve said the castor doesn't get corrected 100% with these guys. I suppose it will help some though, and anything else will just have to be trimmed off (I think its hitting the slider though, and not the body panel). I wish someone made attractive flares for the D2.

I hope I don't re-introduce driveline vibes... the never ending saga of a well mannered lifted vehicle continues to be written.

--Craig

you can't correct the castor with the arms alone and not mess up the driveline angle. getting the castor back requires having the swivel balls modified on D1/RRC - not sure what it entails on DII.

I'd bet you could graft on some of the DAP-INC flares they import from Rangie Spares pretty easily. the panels can't be that different from D1, and the rear door looks to be about the same placement with the quarters.

I've seen a D1 with a set of those and they looked great; lots of room for a set of 33x12.50's on an OME lift.

cheers

If you are doing a swap of the radius arms & you don't have any driveline vibes, do not mess with the caster. A vibeless truck is a wonderful thing.

The tall skinny tire like a 255/85 won't look good on a D2 because of the flares. I've seen plenty of D2s with 235/85 with no flares that look nice. I'm sure a 255/85 w/o flares would look sweet.

Those will be my next tire, but I'll have to bite the bullet and do gears first.

The radius arms arrived yesterday. Hopefully castor will improve, the rub will be fixed, and no vibes will be introduced. If I can improve the castor issue, my wife might even consider driving my truck again.

Castor isn't as big of a problem when lifting a D2 as a D1/RRC, so the slight improvement that will be gained from longer radius arms should be sufficient (according to Steve at RTE). It won't fix it, but it will improve it enough that I'm not going to be thinking about it anymore.

--Craig

Craig, do you have a magnetic protractor? If you do, please measure your pinion angle before and after the install of the radius arms. Like I said before, if the radius arms are just lengthened, I doubt that the caster will change at all.

I do have a magnetic protractor, but it't too late to measure. I installed them at Dan's yesterday.

It drives better, gives me 1 extra finger between the tire and the slider, and I didn't gain any vibes.

--Craig

So that's the non magnetic version of the protractor?