Ben Bailey
 Veteran Member Posts:2561
 | | 29 Jan 2010 03:39 PM |
| OK, so the 2004 Disco is now out of warranty and completely under my care, I feel like it's totally foreign to me in a lot of ways. Since it was under warranty, I literally had the dealer do EVERYTHING, and I completely put it out of my mind so I could focus on keeping my grades up and on maintaining the other vehicles. - What oil? (I think I need to just call the dealer and see what they were using, it was synthetic.)
- What coolant brand do you use?
- Where the heck do you check the transmission fluid on this thing?
- Anything else I need to know about caring for the DII that I don't already know from caring for the DI's and RRC's?
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Craig Miller Posts:11799
 | | 29 Jan 2010 03:53 PM |
| I'll go first, then everyone can tell me how wrong I am.  1. SAE 5W-30 or pick something else from the Operator Manual. Manual is available with RAVE if your's is missing the fancy feaux-leather 3 ring binder.
2. Dexcool - radiator is aluminum
3. There isn't a transmission dip-stick. The plug is up on top. Loosen it, and check it with your finger. Horrible design.
4. Don't forget to soak your ECU in water overnight if it gets dusty. ;)
C
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Mike Rupp
 Veteran Member Posts:1354
 | | 29 Jan 2010 04:19 PM |
| Ben, there were some legendary Dweb threads about oils a while back. Chris St. Louis must have had to take a course on oils as he was really geeked about oils for a while. His conclusion was that you should stick to ACEA A3 oils for the LR V8. FWIW, I've used the Mobil 1 0W-40 as it has very good cold flow properties as well as good high temp, high sheer viscosity. | | | |
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Ben Bailey
 Veteran Member Posts:2561
 | | 29 Jan 2010 05:02 PM |
| Ha, he... yeah, I wanted to avoid the DWeb oil discussions and just get some oil. (I remember the posts he was making.) In other words, I figured going with what the dealer or the manual says is good.
0W?
Costco sells 10w30 Mobil 1 synthetic for $33 for the box. Is 0W really that much different that 10W if you aren't in a competition -- yes, it is different, but is it that much different for these engines? The way I see it, each one of these Rover V8's is probably so far out of tolerances right from the factory that... ;)
Are you seriously telling me I have to crawl under my truck and hug the tranny to check the oil level? | | | |
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Dave Blair
 Basic Member Posts:144
 | | 31 Jan 2010 04:09 PM |
| Checking transmission is a definite chore the way they've set it up. You check the transmission COLD with the engine running by removing the plug. The level should be close to even with the plug hole when you stick your finger in. You have about 5 minutes when you first start the engine to check the fluid, after which it is too warm to get an accurate reading. Don't make the mistake I once made of finding it was low, rolling out to get some fluid and turning the engine off... about 3 litres of fluid immediately evacuated itself onto the shop floor. If you're gonna turn off the engine (to keep it from warming up while you get ready to add fluid) make sure you put the plug in first! cheers, Dave | | | |
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Andy Berglund Tacoma, WA
 Veteran Member Posts:3453
 | | 31 Jan 2010 07:01 PM |
| I agree with Dave's suggestions. The technique for checking the transmission oil on a D2 is a pain. As for the oil, I would find out if in fact the dealer was using synthetic and then stick with it (synthetic) if that's the case. If they were just using regular oil I don't see why you'd bother with the cost premium of synthetic as long as you are able to change it regularly. Why would you bother with 0w? Since most Costcos sell the weight of oil you need in many formulations you should try to stick with whatever the factory suggests. I always agree with Craig's method of keeping the ECU dust free as well. ;)
Andy | | | |
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Ben Bailey
 Veteran Member Posts:2561
 | | 31 Jan 2010 07:53 PM |
| I just went out and sprayed down my ECU with WD-40 to keep the dust and water out.
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OK, no I didn't. | | | |
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Mike Rupp
 Veteran Member Posts:1354
 | | 31 Jan 2010 09:29 PM |
| The reason I bother with 0W is that it flows better when cold which gets oil to the places it needs to be quicker. The question I have is why wouldn't you use 0W? Cost? For God's sake, it's a Land Rover. If you can't afford the cost difference, you might want to consider a different vehicle The other reason is that the 0W40 has a better high temp high shear viscosity. 0W-40 weight oil is simply better in all conditions than the 5w-30 or 10w-30. But hey, if you want to save a buck or two, have at it. | | | |
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Ben Bailey
 Veteran Member Posts:2561
 | | 31 Jan 2010 09:38 PM |
| I'm with you on the 0W, it makes sense in our mild climate -- why 40 then? As the temps go up, what happens in a Rover engine that makes you want 40 instead of 30? Is the 40 an indication of viscosity at operating temp, nothing more, or is it more like looking at a range of viscosity as compared to the 30? By the way, it's OK to be an oil Nazi here. DWeb may be tired of it, but we can handle it.  | | | |
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Mike Rupp
 Veteran Member Posts:1354
 | | 31 Jan 2010 09:44 PM |
| Ben, I don't know about you, but I head over the mountains in the summer when it gets over 90F frequently and want my oil to have a good viscosity at high temps. That is why the 0W-40 is a good oil. It just works well in all of the possible conditions that we'll see. | | | |
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Dan Cronin
 Veteran Member Posts:2844
 | | 31 Jan 2010 10:27 PM |
| I use 90w-420. :-) My engine is a bit slow on 90W-420, but hey - at least I know why it's gas hungry all the time.
I have also found that Tri-Flow works better on the ECU due to it Teflon properties.
My $.05
Danno | | | |
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Andy Berglund Tacoma, WA
 Veteran Member Posts:3453
 | | 01 Feb 2010 12:47 PM |
| I guess I'm tired of trying to outsmart my truck (of course, now it's gone). I think the rational behind using 0wt is perfectly sound. I just didn't want the thin oil from just pouring out the existing leaks.  | | | |
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Scott Williams
 Advanced Member Posts:880
 | | 02 Feb 2010 07:24 PM |
| "The reason I bother with 0W is that it flows better when cold which gets oil to the places it needs to be quicker. The question I have is why wouldn't you use 0W? Cost? For God's sake, it's a Land Rover. If you can't afford the cost difference, you might want to consider a different vehicle The other reason is that the 0W40 has a better high temp high shear viscosity. 0W-40 weight oil is simply better in all conditions than the 5w-30 or 10w-30. But hey, if you want to save a buck or two, have at it." LOL! I get in the same argument with customers who insist they are saving SO much money by buying regular unleaded instead of premium. Sometimes it is better to save your breath.  | | | |
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Jason Keaton
 Basic Member Posts:259
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Mike Rupp
 Veteran Member Posts:1354
 | | 03 Feb 2010 06:17 AM |
| Interesting. I haven't seen a 5W-50 either. I might have to do some looking into this stuff. | | | |
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Jason Keaton
 Basic Member Posts:259
 | | 04 Feb 2010 12:46 PM |
| 5W40 is nearly the same and Rotella T Synthetic 5W40 is 19.99 a gallon at the local Autozone. I get Rotella in the gallon, get two gallons for first oil change, use 1.5 gallons for change, get one gallon on next oil change and use remainder from first oil change on next oil change, so on and so on. | | | |
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Mike Rupp
 Veteran Member Posts:1354
 | | 04 Feb 2010 01:01 PM |
| Jason, a lot of Land Rover guys swear by the Rotella. I've used Mobil One for so long in so many different vehicles, it is hard for me to change. | | | |
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Ben Bailey
 Veteran Member Posts:2561
 | | 04 Feb 2010 01:16 PM |
| I think Costco has a $7.00 off per box sale right now on Mobil 1 5w40. | | | |
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Mike Rupp
 Veteran Member Posts:1354
 | | 04 Feb 2010 01:33 PM |
| I'd jump on that Ben. I've never seen Mobil 1 5w40 at a Costco before. | | | |
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Scott Williams
 Advanced Member Posts:880
 | | 04 Feb 2010 06:14 PM |
| Mobil 1 is an excellent oil. I have been using Pentosin high performance synthetic in BMW engines and MINI engines and Mobil CleanSystem in Rover V8's. Great results with both. | | | |
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