Does anybody have any history with the Toddco 2" suspension lifts that they offer? Specifically the machined spacers that allow for the retention of the factory springs.

If you were going to lift your rig what is the lift to go with?

Thanks.
Dustin

I don't know much about other lifts/springs.  but I have always had good luck with OME.

I was just curious about those, clearly a cheap alternative for a simple amount of lift for tire clearance. I agree though, you get what you pay for. I have OME on the RRC and have been plenty happy, but there are a ton more options for the Disco's.

Scott if you see this thread, what does Columbia Rovers say is the premere lift in the 2 or 3 inch range for a Discovery? No hard core off roading/rock crawling, but for a longer term build out of a very trail capable rig.

Dustin

If you can't do the locker right now, I think the spacers work out OK for you  over OME because you keep a bit better articulation due to the softer spring rate.   You won't want to run it like that for more than maybe 6~9 months because the factory springs will wear down to just about nothing.   what most people fail to realize is that it's perfectly acceptable to replace the worn factory springs with 1~200k miles on them with fresh, genuine factory springs.    Most vehicles now are sitting a good 1/2" less or more than they were when they came off the lot. 

Especially if you're light on armor and don't have a roof-rack, this is fine.    If that changes - you'll want the stiffer springs.   RTE is way too stiff to run without lockers, in my opinion.   Performance is greatly reduced compared to stock.  The clearance is worth nothing if you can't get traction to the ground.   When you're diffs are still open you have to count on the softer spring rate to keep the ground pressure as even as possible on each tire of the axle under articulation. A stiffer spring upsets that balance.   OME medium duty springs with a loaded up truck is juuuuuust about right to retain a balance of load-carrying ability and articulation.   Without sliders, rear bumper, or a bit of load over the rear axle the truck's going to be a bit stiff legged and you'll break traction earlier.  It really is kind of a delicate balance, which is why there are so many different springs out there with varying rates.   

To sum up - the reason you see so many vehicles running OME is because it works very well for the vast majority of situations you're likely to encounter.   Especially after fitting lockers, it's very tough to beat that combination in terms of ability.    

hopefully that wasn't too pedantic and made some kind of sense   

cheers,

-ike

Hey Ike, I'm interested in your thoughts on a heavily loaded RRC.  Right now I have OME Mediums (I think) with a font winch and bumper, Sliders, rear tire swingaway bumper, roof rack, roof tent, and fridge.  I want to get another 1 inch with my 235/85's.  A good mutual friend was reccomending the OME constant rate HD springs. 

My OME springs are a bit old now, but I really like the ride and it seems to articulate fairly well.  What I am looking at is 1 inch spacers or replacing the springs with something fresher and taller.  Any thoughts?

Todd, I'd second the vote for the OME constant rate springs, and will echo what Mike's previously said.  Do you have a specific spring number in mind, yet?  there are quite a few ... also, do you have the mediums or the heavies on right now?  As to the spacers question, the thing is - in your case it would serve the goal for lift in the static case and going down the highway.  Off-road is a different story.  If you have heavies on there already, maybe the spacers would be fine.  If they are mediums, I'd absolutely not use the spacers.  In either case it's still better I think to get a higher rate, taller spring to do the job well and to do it reliably.  You just have to pay attention to the numbers to make sure they'll sufficiently higher than what you've got at present.  

The OME's are a fine choice, but you could also as easily consider a pair of RTE 3" springs if their advertised rate of 300~340 in/lbs is higher than what you've already got.   The progressive springs are going to absorb chatter over washboard better than a constant rate spring, which is something to think about.

Also, moving up to 3" of lift you're getting into issues with the prop-shaft.  On the LWB, I am guessing that the longer rear drive shaft will absorb the extra lift compared to an SWB,  but it could be dicey over long stretches.   If you don't already have it, an upgraded propshaft is probably in your future.  In Gatsby, a set of RTE 3" springs yielded close to 4" of lift since I had nothing for armor and no roof-rack.  The stock rear shaft didn't vibe, but I was only counting on it for trail-truck  / manastash duties, not 1k mile treks.  surely it would have eaten u-joints at a high rate with any significant mileage.

As far as performance, given that you've got TT's front and rear, the articulation isn't as big of a deal, as Mike also points out here above.   if'fin you switched over and found yourself breaking traction after the spring change, then I'd  just swap the TT with a detroit and call it a day.   you wouldn't notice the change except off-road.

cheers

-ike

Mike-

Appreciate the conversation and suggestions. I have OME mediums on the RRC now and have no plans to modify the suspension components. I was curious about the use of these on a DII while I figure out the other components of a longer term build for this rig. Based on the conversations here, it really looks like the best route to travel is an actual replacment of stock equipment with the correct aftermarket equipment.

Specific to rockcrawling... I am in the same boat as you describe.... for some reason I always throw that on the table with the context of all of these tube framed rigs bouncing all over the rocks and making it. For the rocks I want to crawl, the setup that I finally land on will work just fine.

Dustin

I've run OME Progressive rate springs and RTE 3" HD springs on my DII. The OME progressive's rode fantastic around town but still allowed me to put in a moderate load. As my truck became more and more built up I switched to a full on set of 3" RTE HD springs. In complete contrast to Ike's statements above I found that the truck articulated substantially better. The wheel was able to drop further but also stuffed up well.

Here's a bad photo (screen grab from video tape), but it illustrates the flex you can achieve with an RTE lift.

I'd agree with others on going OME instead of a puck. I'd also suggest you consider the progressive rate springs if it is mostly going to be driven around town or short day trips rather than overnighters.

Craig

Craig, what was the rate for those?  were the rears not progressive?   the 3" set I had was an early set and were constant rate (probably the exact same spring set as your truck), but I thought all of RTE's new springs were progressive in the higher load range.    At least that's how they're being advertised on their site.

 cheers

-ike

Scott,

This is perfect and the path I think I will travel. Any opinion on the Nitrocharger shocks or not? I already am looking into the wheel swap, stole the intel from Todd's thread on tires and am ready to pull the trigger.

Dustin