pross
Basic Member
Posts:362
 | | 26 Nov 2010 09:54 PM |
| Ok so I locked in the diff on my 87 RRC to get up the hill at my house when I went to put it back in high it shifted like it went in and nothing just a grinding like its not engaging it shifts back to diff lock high and low just fine but wont engage plain old high and low no matter what I try I got it for a second then it poped back out ???????????????????? | | |
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Ben Bailey
Veteran Member
Posts:2561
| | 26 Nov 2010 11:21 PM |
| Make sure the wheels are straight, roll the car forward, and while it is moving, shift into N, and try the transfer case. It is common for them to go in, but not actually lock in place, so it pops out as you've mentioned. (It's common enough that later models of Discos and RRC's have an annoying buzzer that goes off when it is acting locked, but not really locked in place -- ask me how I know...) But then again, it could be totally busted and you're stuck! Just... sorry. ;)
Uh... you have an LT230 in a 1987, right? Just checking, because if you don't, then you really are screwed because the lever isn't supposed to do what you say it is doing if you have the BW type. But you're not screwed that bad, since this will be an excuse to get an LT230. | | | |
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Craig Miller
Posts:11799
| | 26 Nov 2010 11:36 PM |
| @Ben - It has an LT230.
@Jeremy - In addition to what Ben said, try reverse too, or even jack up one wheel on each axle to release any tension stored in the driveline. | | | |
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pross
Basic Member
Posts:362
| | 27 Nov 2010 06:23 PM |
| thanks for the tips ill give it a try as for lt230 im really not sure from what iv found the 87-88 had to manualy lock the diff and it all looks pretty stock it even has a diff lock light next to the radio. | | | |
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pross
Basic Member
Posts:362
| | 27 Nov 2010 06:35 PM |
| still gotnothin it went for a second i went forward and back but got about 20ft and it poped back out. will running the diff lock all the time cause any more damage. | | | |
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Ben Bailey
Veteran Member
Posts:2561
| | 27 Nov 2010 07:05 PM |
| Yes, eventually running in diff lock will cause damage on normal roads.
So... the diff lock/low high stick can move in a figure "8". Anything on the left side is locked. Anything on the right side is unlocked. If the stick is in the upper part of the "8" (left or right) it will be in low gear -- you might be able to drive it as fast as 25 MPH in low gear. Anything in the lower half of the "8" is high gear.
You should be able to move it back and forth from lock to unlock (left or right) at most any time while stopped or driving. Sometimes it doesn't want to move, so rolling it, or having it in N on the gearbox helps.
You will need to be rolling at LESS than 5 mph -- just a slight crawl -- to move it from N to Low or High gears.
If you can drive it locked to get it onto a trailer or whatever, that's fine. Just be gentle with it while on pavement.
You might get away with holding it into the high range, unlocked (lower right side of the "8") while you slowly try to coax it into staying there itself as you drive gently it might sort of bump into it's solid position there.
Is the car in a safe place? | | | |
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pross
Basic Member
Posts:362
| | 27 Nov 2010 11:22 PM |
| yeah the trucks home and thanks to spokanes lack of plowing I need the truck locked most roads are ice and snow coverd right now and it goes high low diff with no problem and drives fine as long as im locked but the linkage feels loose like that might be the problem so im gong to dig into it tomarrow and see my thinking is that its driving fine with it locked no noise and when i manage to get it in its fine untill it pops out we hve really crappy roads around here so my thought is somthing came loose or ?????? | | | |
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Craig Miller
Posts:11799
| | 27 Nov 2010 11:33 PM |
| That's a very real possibility Jeremy. That linkage is quite adjustable. It might have rattled loose, or come out of adjustment. It's kind of hard to get to with everything in place though. Good luck. | | | |
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pross
Basic Member
Posts:362
| | 29 Nov 2010 04:02 PM |
| More stumped than ever I dug into the linkage and its fine the transfer case is engaging I put it in high or low and it goes in I shift into gear and the propshaft spins like it should I rev the motor and they go faster but the truck goes knowhere and rolls like its in neutral even as the shafts spin in drive and the truck still drives perfect with the diffs locked I did notice its leaking fluid froma gasketcould that be the problem I just dont get it it engages and the shafts spin but the truck goes knowwhere unless the diff is locked ????????????????????????????????? | | | |
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Craig Miller
Posts:11799
| | 29 Nov 2010 04:18 PM |
| I apologize if this is too obvious, but thought I'd ask anyway... Is this on the truck with the bad driveshaft? Did you happen to pull one of the driveshafts? Otherwise it's beyond me. Someone like Dan who understands how the LT230 works internally is better qualified to help. | | | |
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pross
Basic Member
Posts:362
| | 29 Nov 2010 04:44 PM |
| no that was my 92 and i put a new shaft in that a few weeks ago. im also wondering i took it to a 5inch lift about 3 weeks ago if that could be part of the issue. | | | |
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Gabriel Itaya
Basic Member
Posts:331
| | 29 Nov 2010 10:08 PM |
| So the drive shafts spin when the diff lock is disengaged and you rev the engine? How does that work? | | | |
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pross
Basic Member
Posts:362
| | 29 Nov 2010 10:18 PM |
| the shafts spin when i put it in normal high or low not in nutrel and when I put the truck in drive or reverse the shafts spin like they should but the truck doesnt move the drive terrain says go the shafts say go but it dont go only when locked. | | | |
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Craig Miller
Posts:11799
| | 29 Nov 2010 11:20 PM |
| If the propshafts are spinning, but the truck isn't moving then it sounds like you broke something in one of the axles: differential, half shaft, maybe a CV. With the CDL unlocked, all the power will go to the wheel with the least resistance. If one of those items are broken, that will be the wheel with the least resistance.
I'd inspect it first, but if that doesn't help narrow it down, pull one driveshaft at a time and see if it still goes when locked. If it's locked, and won't go with only one propshaft connected then you know which axle is bad.
Craig | | | |
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pross
Basic Member
Posts:362
| | 29 Nov 2010 11:35 PM |
| thats kind of what i was starting to think iv also had problems with the steering i thought was ball joints but it has been better since this started and sometimes my steering locks up and wont turn untill i roll forward and then to day i noticed iv had trouble getting tracktion in the front and it has a tendancy to swing my rearend like a rwd car so my thought is axel or swivel joint. | | | |
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pross
Basic Member
Posts:362
| | 30 Nov 2010 12:19 AM |
| I think I just solved my problem found a disco without a motor for $400 bucks. 24 spline here i come and a newer lt230. | | | |
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pross
Basic Member
Posts:362
| | 30 Nov 2010 07:12 PM |
| ok so the hubs and axels are fine but im getting no power to the front wheels the shaft is still spining could the diff flange where the u-joint bolts to be stripped???????? iv never heard of that but never know the diff only making a very faint rotational grinding niose not enough to say the diff is blown since its stilll drivable. | | | |
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Craig Miller
Posts:11799
| | 30 Nov 2010 07:49 PM |
| Are you sure you didn't break an axle halfshaft? | | | |
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pross
Basic Member
Posts:362
| | 30 Nov 2010 08:00 PM |
| pulled them out whole. and all the berings and gaskets where fine. | | | |
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Grant Mossman
Veteran Member
Posts:1409
| | 30 Nov 2010 08:49 PM |
| Do these have hubs or drive flanges? Possible a hub is not totally engaging? | | | |
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