Luke
Basic Member
Posts:254
 | | 29 Aug 2011 11:17 AM |
| This winter I will be embarking on a beautification process for my Discovery: buffing out the scratches, re-painting the steel bumpers and sliders, sanding the headlight lenses, and just generally making it look like the Discovery it wants to be when it looks at itself in a mirror. One of the main parts of this will be to restore the rusty bull bars their youthful black. So I’m looking for a durable coating or paint that I can repaint them with that I can do myself, inexpensively, and as a substitute for powder coating. Besides Rustolium in a spray can, what have you all used in the past that has worked? |
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Ben Bailey
Veteran Member
Posts:2562
| | 29 Aug 2011 01:11 PM |
| I loved how my bumper turned out when I used Por15. I blasted it, then painted the Por15 on by hand. Two coats EXACTLY as the instructions say. Then I followed the instructions for painting the last coat with the color of my choice -- semi-gloss black. I used the NAPA spray paint equal of Rustoleum. I've used a lot of Rustoleum in my past, I like the NAPA stuff much better. Sprays on a lot nicer, easier to work with.
Anyway, read the directions, but the general idea is to let the second or third coat dry to the point where it is just tacky to touch, then you spray on a thin layer of the rattle can. But read the directions. You won't be sorry, the finish comes out very even and with just a very light texture. The last time I saw the truck (it's the yellow one at Columbia Overland) the bumper still looked really good three years later.
If it ever scratches or gets marked up, you can just spray it again. |
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Luke
Basic Member
Posts:254
| | 29 Aug 2011 02:24 PM |
| Did you use any of the prep chemicals that they offer, or go straight for the POR15 after blast? I wantched a short demo and the stuff looks almost indestructable! |
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Bert Caldwell
New Member
Posts:39
| | 29 Aug 2011 02:38 PM |
| Just thought I'd offer a few tips about the headlight lenses. Even though the restoration kits include sand paper as coarse as 360, In my shop I would never use anything more coarse than 1200 grit to start with. I wet sand with that then go to 2000 then 2500. If you are proficient with a rotary buffer, After wet sanding, I use Meguiar's Ultra cut #105 then Meguiar's swirl remover #9. This whole process takes about 20 minutes or less per lens. Also don't forget to apply some masking tape to the painted edges around the lens before you start so as to not scuff or scratch that paint. Those two Meguiar's products will also give you a very nice finish while removing a lot of the brush scratches in the paint. they aren't cheap but well worth the money. hope this is of some help to you.
Bert |
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Luke
Basic Member
Posts:254
| | 29 Aug 2011 02:49 PM |
| Thanks Bert! Will this also work for the black plastic A pillars on either side of the windshield? They are badly scratched up and need some love too. |
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Bert Caldwell
New Member
Posts:39
| | 29 Aug 2011 02:55 PM |
| You're welcome. It should work the same. I never have needed to sand on those, only buff them when doing the rest of the paint on the vehicle. Do use a bit of caution as you can melt the plastic if you spin the buffer too fast ( I usually keep it down around 1000 rpm) or if you stay in an area to long, Keep moving but don't be afraid of it just pay attention.
Bert |
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Ben Bailey
Veteran Member
Posts:2562
| | 29 Aug 2011 03:04 PM |
| I did not use any prep after blasting, other than a good cleaning with compressed air, tacky/moist cloth, then brake cleaner spray to make sure there were no oils left. The metal was rough enough to allow the paint to stick. It was a Safarigard bumper, so there was a lot of metal to blast hard. |
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Luke
Basic Member
Posts:254
| | 29 Aug 2011 06:14 PM |
| You have your own sand blaster? What's your favorite beer and when can I come over? |
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Keith
Basic Member
Posts:163
| | 29 Aug 2011 08:34 PM |
| For bumpers, etc. this is the only paint I'll use anymore - Rustoleum oil based. It's not so hard that it comes off in chips when a stone bounces off the metal. I've had other hard enamels flake off like mad (even POR, if it's painted on a smooth new surface), but this stuff just sticks and only exposes metal when scraped off. The only downside is that it takes a day or so to fully cure and depending on the quality of your brush you might have brush-strokes in the finished product (though it will self level a bit if you thin it out) 
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Luke
Basic Member
Posts:254
| | 29 Aug 2011 09:14 PM |
| Keith- I am having trouble finding it in non-spray format, where do you get this stuff? |
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Luke
Basic Member
Posts:254
| | 29 Aug 2011 09:17 PM |
| Disregard, typing "oil based" solved the problem.
I need a few more opinions on these two products. The POR15 looks like the mack daddy of durability, but the price of the Rustolium is hard to argue with. |
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Keith
Basic Member
Posts:163
| | 29 Aug 2011 09:30 PM |
| Posted By Luke Wright on 08/29/2011 9:14 PM
Keith- I am having trouble finding it in non-spray format, where do you get this stuff?
Most big box stores (the Blue or Orange ones both carry it), though I usually prefer buying at a locally owned hardware store if I can find one. Since this thread started I've been reading about Valspar oil based metal primer, which seems to be a favorite of the "tractor and farm implement" crowd as a primer/undercoat. You might also want to find a local farm supply store and ask their opinion about different types of paint and what they would recommend for durability.
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Craig Spaeth
Basic Member
Posts:439
| | 29 Aug 2011 10:03 PM |
| I have used Chassis Black from Eastwood in the past and had great results with it. It is kind of pricey but sprays on well and is really durable. I have not used this new line of Chassis Black yet but if it is at least as good as the old stuff it should be great.
I just did my rock sliders with Dupli Color bed coating from rattle can. It is a little rough to look good on bumpers but I am very happy with it on the sliders. There is enough texture to hide scratches and it makes a nice no skid surface for climbing up on. I hit the sliders a few spots out in Tilamook last week and the paint seems to have held up well. I really wanted something I could easily touch up. So far I am very happy with it.
hope this helps,
the other Craig |
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pross
Basic Member
Posts:362
| | 31 Aug 2011 10:25 AM |
| I also suggest the oil based enamel from rustoleum that keith suggested iv used it alot and we use it to
paint our circle track cars its cheap and leaves a great finish when sprayed on. |
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Luke
Basic Member
Posts:254
| | 31 Aug 2011 01:09 PM |
| Because of the price, I think that I will end up using the Rustolium oil based enamel in the spray can. I will let you know how it works. |
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Rob Stewart
Basic Member
Posts:429
| | 02 Sep 2011 02:58 PM |
| A little hijack, but same general topic.....anyone ever paint a vehicle with this stuff? Tossing around the idea of painting my FJ40 with this stuff as that is a tempting price tag compared to getting it done professionally. 
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Ben Bailey
Veteran Member
Posts:2562
| | 02 Sep 2011 03:51 PM |
| The brush on stuff that you can put into an airless is the way to go if you are not going with Por15. Stay away from Rustoleum spray cans. In my experience, about 25% of them fail before half way through the can. They are much more difficult to spray with a good cover than the NAPA stuff.
I have used the Rustoleum brush on stuff in an airless sprayer. It worked well, but make sure you prep properly. |
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pross
Basic Member
Posts:362
| | 02 Sep 2011 04:06 PM |
| I have sprayed that a few times with my HVLP gun works great and even takes a clear coat well
I mix it 4:1 with mineral spirits I am actually going to use it on my hyundai
next week in sail blue adding some blue pearl then using a nasson clearover it
but yup works awesome when sprayed |
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Keith
Basic Member
Posts:163
| | 02 Sep 2011 06:26 PM |
| Posted By Rob Stewart on 09/02/2011 2:58 PM A little hijack, but same general topic.....anyone ever paint a vehicle with this stuff? Tossing around the idea of painting my FJ40 with this stuff as that is a tempting price tag compared to getting it done professionally. Google search something to the effect of "roll on car paint" - here's one quick result that shows how good you can get it with a bit of elbow grease: www.meguiarsonline.com/forums/showthread.php 
Here's another with some more pics in the instructions: www.rickwrench.com/index79master.htm |
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Luke
Basic Member
Posts:254
| | 04 Sep 2011 09:59 PM |
| Any recomendations on a reasonably priced spray gun? |
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