Luke
Basic Member
Posts:254
 | | 28 Dec 2011 10:58 AM |
| Howdy! Does anyone here have experience with CV joints? If I am taking a low speed turn, especially from a stop, I am getting a loud popping noise. I am assuming that is being caused by a failing CV. But I am not positive and am open to other suggestions. Thanks. | | |
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Rick Lindgren
Power User
Advanced Member
Posts:986
| | 28 Dec 2011 12:01 PM |
| Luke, There may be other things that are leadng to a "pop" sound as you are turning but when my CVs gave up the ghost, they both did so like this: northwestoverlandsociety.org/DesktopModules/UltraMediaGallery/Exif.aspx The result was that they would "flex" open under strain and the axle would rotate until the pressure was reduced and the aligned teeth again. Then it would go back to "working" until too much pressure was applied and it would "flex" open again letting the axle spin for a moment. Then they died..... | | | |
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Luke
Basic Member
Posts:254
| | 28 Dec 2011 12:05 PM |
| Ouch! What signs did it give that it was about to explode? | | | |
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Rick Lindgren
Power User
Advanced Member
Posts:986
| | 28 Dec 2011 12:23 PM |
| I didn't notice much on-road for the first one. I think it was on the "long-axle" side so for general driving, the shorter axle would absorb torque earlier and take the brunt of the short-lived acceleration periods. Off-road, it manifested as more Traction Control activation than I should have been seeing because it was flexing open and the two sides were not spinning together under stress-full situations.
Once I fixed it and removed it as the "fuse", the resulting stress, off-road, revealed the weaknesses that had accumulated in the short-axle CV and it broke under stress in a "deep snow, you are spinning, spinning and you suddenly find solid ground" situation. that happened very soon afterward. It was a bad year. Three axles and two CVs in fairly quick succession. It's all better now. | | | |
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Scott Williams
Advanced Member
Posts:880
| | 28 Dec 2011 12:56 PM |
| Luke, Check your driveshaft carefully. The front double cardan joint will make a pop on turns if it is starting to wear out. Inspect both front and rear joints on both shafts closely. After reading your post here a little more carefully  you may be having a bushing bind as well. Look at the sway bar bushings up front. Look for signs of rust around the bushing where the bar is held to the frame. Then grab the sway bar near the end link and push up and down. You shouldn't hear any noises. If you hear a pop while pushing on the link the ball socket/s are worn and the link should be replaced. PM me if you would like some additional help. | | | |
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Luke
Basic Member
Posts:254
| | 28 Dec 2011 01:48 PM |
| Thanks Scott. I'm not sure when I will be able to put time into it, I have one hand in a cast right now.
...I just noticed that the fake snow flakes accumulate at the bottom of the screen, Craig that it too cool. | | | |
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Craig Miller
Posts:11803
| | 28 Dec 2011 09:01 PM |
| Wow! Scott and Rick w/ a silent P both come out from hiding. Where's Kevan, Ike, Matt M, and Peter?? This party is rolling. GREAT to see you guys posting again. Missed you both. | | | |
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Nevak Risew
Veteran Member
Posts:1200
| | 28 Dec 2011 10:19 PM |
| You know where I am.... Waiting for a FB post from Ike to determine his exact whereabouts. Should be anytime now! | | | |
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Rick Lindgren
Power User
Advanced Member
Posts:986
| | 29 Dec 2011 09:44 AM |
| It's like old home week here at NWOS. :-)
Even Nevak came out to play! Dang, I haven't typed "Nevak" in a long time. | | | |
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Andy Berglund
Tacoma, WA
Veteran Member
Posts:3453
| | 29 Dec 2011 03:32 PM |
| Talk about people coming out of the woodwork!
Anyhow, the finer points of CV probs have obviously been covered. CV replacement is fairly easy and this is probably a repair any wheeler should learn how to do. The only "weird" thing on a D2 is the oversized nut that holds the whole shebang on. I think it was 54mm but I'm probably wrong. Anyhow, that's the only special tool you'll need (well, that and the torque needed to remove it LOL). Definitely a doable project.
Andy | | | |
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Rick Lindgren
Power User
Advanced Member
Posts:986
| | 29 Dec 2011 04:34 PM |
| Andy brings up a good point...(Hi, Andy!) the biggest issue(s) that could stop you from doing this in the field center around preparation. i.e. Do you have a pretty large and unusual socket size to fit the nut securing the CV to the hub and do you have some way to apply sufficient torque. if you planned for that, you could do this in the field and you should certainly be able to do it in a well-stocked home shop with some planning and access to a tool store.
If you trash a CV in the field and don't have the tools and torque on hand to swap the CV, you can work around that, provided you are able to lock your center differential. The front hub itself can be removed fairly easily with "standard" sized sockets and torque. You can:
a) Remove the front hub
b) pop the axle free from the CV since it is only secured with a circlip.
c) put the axle in the back of the truck for safe keeping
d) seal the end of axle housing any way possible and as water tight as possible.
e) re-install the hub with the bad CV joint and drive out in rear-wheel drive while avoiding water crossings as much as possible.
similarly, if you snap an axle, you can:
a) remove the hub
b) fish out all the broken bits with a magnetic tool and some diff draining
c) refill the diff
d) depending on where the axle sheared, either remove it from the CV and seal the axle housing up or
e) just reinstall the hub with the much shorter axle still in the CV to keep water out of the axle housing.
f) drive out in rear-wheel drive.
These are not great options and are only temp measures to get you to a better place to do the real work. But it is always good to think about the options before it happens and you are kneeling in cold mud with a dead CV or snapped axle. | | | |
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Dan Cronin
Veteran Member
Posts:2844
| | 29 Dec 2011 05:52 PM |
| Posted By Rick Lindgren on 12/29/2011 4:34 PM Andy brings up a good point...(Hi, Andy!) the biggest issue(s) that could stop you from doing this in the field center around preparation. i.e. Do you have a pretty large and unusual socket size to fit the nut securing the CV to the hub and do you have some way to apply sufficient torque. if you planned for that, you could do this in the field and you should certainly be able to do it in a well-stocked home shop with some planning and access to a tool store.
If you trash a CV in the field and don't have the tools and torque on hand to swap the CV, you can work around that, provided you are able to lock your center differential. The front hub itself can be removed fairly easily with "standard" sized sockets and torque. You can:
a) Remove the front hub
b) pop the axle free from the CV since it is only secured with a circlip.
c) put the axle in the back of the truck for safe keeping
d) seal the end of axle housing any way possible and as water tight as possible.
e) re-install the hub with the bad CV joint and drive out in rear-wheel drive while avoiding water crossings as much as possible.
similarly, if you snap an axle, you can:
a) remove the hub
b) fish out all the broken bits with a magnetic tool and some diff draining
c) refill the diff
d) depending on where the axle sheared, either remove it from the CV and seal the axle housing up or
e) just reinstall the hub with the much shorter axle still in the CV to keep water out of the axle housing.
f) drive out in rear-wheel drive.
These are not great options and are only temp measures to get you to a better place to do the real work. But it is always good to think about the options before it happens and you are kneeling in cold mud with a dead CV or snapped axle. Whoa whoa whoa!!!!! WHo is the newbie that speaks words of wisdom? Step forth and be known!  | | | |
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Rick Lindgren
Power User
Advanced Member
Posts:986
| | 30 Dec 2011 08:37 AM |
| Darn you, Cronin! Why must you stalk and torment me? Fine, I admit it, I don't even own a truck....i just copied and pasted that from another message board. All I wanted was to make some friends! Is that so bad? | | | |
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Isaac Fain
WARNING: Pot Stirrer
Advanced Member
Posts:511
| | 30 Dec 2011 03:48 PM |
| I promised to not allow my mid life crisis to extend over into NWOS, but ...WTH How's the gang?! I'm sitting here in Haight Ashbury getting stared at by wide-eyed, khaki clad tourists and dreaming of being hopelessly stuck in a snow field with no hope of rehab..errr recovery. As to that DII CV joint ... listen to Rick. Also - if you don't like blown CV's, don't follow Ike. | | | |
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Scott Williams
Advanced Member
Posts:880
| | 30 Dec 2011 03:52 PM |
| I figured it was a matter of time before you became a tourist attraction unto yourself Ike. Glad to know you are alive and kicking! | | | |
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Rick Lindgren
Power User
Advanced Member
Posts:986
| | 30 Dec 2011 04:00 PM |
| And we have officially derailed a perfectly good technical thread on DII CV joints..... Glad to hear you are alive and being stared at, Ike. | | | |
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Dan Cronin
Veteran Member
Posts:2844
| | 30 Dec 2011 04:20 PM |
| Posted By Rick Lindgren on 12/30/2011 8:37 AM
Darn you, Cronin! Why must you stalk and torment me? Fine, I admit it, I don't even own a truck....i just copied and pasted that from another message board. All I wanted was to make some friends! Is that so bad? 
Hug?
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Luke
Basic Member
Posts:254
| | 30 Dec 2011 08:07 PM |
| And now I feel like a complete new-comer here, now that the old dogs are back in town. | | | |
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Rick Lindgren
Power User
Advanced Member
Posts:986
| | 30 Dec 2011 08:11 PM |
| Feel good about it, Luke. You don't want to be associated with this crowd. Back to your CV... I'd recommend running through the stuff that Scott recommended as soon as your hands are working again. His suggestions are probably more mechanically/technically sound and less scary than my doom and gloom 'Shattered Star' CV theory. | | | |
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Craig Miller
Posts:11803
| | 31 Dec 2011 02:18 AM |
| Posted By Luke Wright on 12/30/2011 8:07 PM
And now I feel like a complete new-comer here, now that the old dogs are back in town. You fit right in Luke. A dumbass through and through. Hah | | | |
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