Jnorth
 New Member Posts:35
 | | 15 May 2007 08:08 PM |
| so i got the gosh darn fudging yellow abs , trc and dwn hill assit lights in my 99 disco are coming on every now and again shut her down they go away then i will be driving and poof ther they are ,I throw on my obd2 code reader and nothing . I called the nice folks of land rover of seattle and dude tells me could be lots of stuff may cost arount 2 gs just to find out what it is and that i better do it soon cause it could be real bad .. so i tell him "ha ha yeah right buddy suck my " then i hang up the phone and later my boss who has a 02 says the same thing but he aint sweatin it cause hes heard the same from a few others ....... so whats the deal yo is this a comin thing any info out there please help | | |
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Andy Berglund Tacoma, WA
 Veteran Member Posts:3453
 | | 15 May 2007 09:23 PM |
| who's yo?
anyway, the lights could come on for any number of reasons. they won't throw ODB-II trouble codes. the codes they produce can only be read with a testbook, rova-comm, etc.
the cost of the repair could cost upwards of $2k but it most likely is much cheaper. the only way you'll know is by taking the truck to a land rover dealer or indie shop that has the aforementioned computers and have the codes read. it shouldn't cost more than $90 to get the codes read (which is still a lot but cheaper than $2k). then you'll know whether it's an interupted signal fault, a bad shuttle valve, or something else.
search pirate4x4.com. they have their search function working on a temp basis right now. they're really helpful.
andy | | | |
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Jnorth
 New Member Posts:35
 | | 15 May 2007 10:21 PM |
| oh man i hate leaving my baby in the hands wrench monkey but it looks like i might have to this round or at least to figure out where its coming from and 90 bones to get on the right track ahh not so bad .. i love doing mt own work and have been really suprised at how easy some things have turned out ,, went to put in my h.i.d. lights and man i tripped when i figured the headlights pop out with no tools and the brakes cake ! got me kinda stoked about rippin into the rest of this thing ........I wonder how much one of the ecu readers is and if it would be worth having | | | |
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Jnorth
 New Member Posts:35
 | | 15 May 2007 10:24 PM |
| oh yo was this dude i grew up with back in the day | | | |
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Dan Cronin
 Veteran Member Posts:2845
 | | 15 May 2007 11:02 PM |
| I smell a society corruption in the air.......yo  Fer real. | | | |
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Andy Berglund Tacoma, WA
 Veteran Member Posts:3453
 | | 15 May 2007 11:33 PM |
| rova-comm lite is ~$1500 or something. so no, it isn't really worth it. OTG will have a nicer version soon. andy<-a friend of the establishment  | | | |
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Craig Miller Posts:11803
 | | 15 May 2007 11:45 PM |
| Jason,
Take it into an independant shop, have them read the codes and tell you what's wrong. It can be anything from a fouled sensor to a bad SLABS ECU. My guess, based on the symptoms you describe, is that it will be the former in which case you just get a new wheel speed sensor, swap it in, and you will be good to go. Getting your codes read at an independent shop shouldn't be too painful on the pocketbook.
Craig
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Tony Sims
 Veteran Member Posts:1237
 | | 16 May 2007 09:21 AM |
| Jason,
Consider this suggestion -- instead of drowning the board in questions that are unlikely to get you any answer that makes the situation improve, how about tackling your problems one at a time and doing some trouble shooting? Simple, logical, process of elimination stuff, yo.
You have three lights coming on, so tackle each one separately. Ask questions that lead you to specific steps in the solution -- like, "What are some reasons the ABS light might come on?" and "Where are the sensors and computer for my ABS?" Then you can do some simple things like cleaning electrical connectors, continuity checks, resistance checks, and the like. Electronics give some real benefits in a car, but a car is not an electronics-friendly environment, so some maintenance is required.
If everything I just said sounds like some cross between a physics exam and black magic, then buck up and take your truck to a tech and pay the tariff. You remind me of the guys I see on the BMW boards, who are always looking for a $5 way to solve a $500 problem, and are enormously disappointed when they find out that a car that cost $40,000 in 1990 is not as cheap to own as a Chebby. If you want to wheel on the cheap, go buy a mid-90's Heep and be happy. NAS Land Rovers have never been cheap to buy or fix, and were not designed with owner maintenance in mind. You either have to raise your game to gain the skills and knowledge needed to do your own work, or you pay someone who has.
On behalf of the resident "wrench monkeys", I'd suggest that if these repairs are beyond your ability, you might want to reconsider your attitude about techs. Most modern auto techs carry around a serious load of training and knowledge. As they say, if it were easy, everyone would do it...
I'm not trying to bust your eggs, Jason, I really want you to like your truck and learn. Being able to fix things brings big satisfaction, but more importantly, in the words of the immortal Clint Eastwood -- "A man's got to know his limitations."
Cheers, | | | |
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Britt Pinson
 Advanced Member Posts:601
 | | 16 May 2007 09:31 AM |
| X2
Todays "Wrench Monkey" is part ME and EE.
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Andy Berglund Tacoma, WA
 Veteran Member Posts:3453
 | | 16 May 2007 09:43 AM |
| well said tony. out of the group, i'm probably one of the least mechanically inclined. i also like to attempt to work on my own truck so i know the frustration about having things being removed from your hands. unfortunately, at least to start with, you're going to need the tech's help on diagnosing the problem. from there you could determine whether or not you can effect the repair yourself. and, FWIW, there are a few pro "wrench monkies" on this site. you don't want to get on their bad side.  andy | | | |
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Peter Carey
 Veteran Member Posts:2829
 | | 16 May 2007 10:05 AM |
| I'm into capitulation. before you jump to conclusions, look it up.  | | | |
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Britt Pinson
 Advanced Member Posts:601
 | | 16 May 2007 10:17 AM |
| "Never give up, never surrender!"
Cmdr. Peter Quincy Taggart | | | |
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Tony Sims
 Veteran Member Posts:1237
 | | 16 May 2007 01:14 PM |
| Posted By Britt Pinson on 05/16/2007 10:17 AM
"Never give up, never surrender!"
Cmdr. Peter Quincy Taggart 
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Tony Sims
 Veteran Member Posts:1237
 | | 16 May 2007 03:52 PM |
| Posted By Peter Carey on 05/16/2007 10:05 AM
I'm into capitulation. before you jump to conclusions, look it up. 
That doesn't involve putting your head in a dry cleaning bag, does it? Geez, you guys and your kinks... 
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Todd Eliason
 Veteran Member Posts:3520
 | | 16 May 2007 04:06 PM |
| The three light scenario on DII's is many times a sensor issue and triggers all three lights together. My experience is that it they come on/off intemittently until they are on for good. A proper scan will let you know which sensor is at fault. LRNA came out with a new design due to some flaws in their original design (my interpretation), which gets rid of the connector near the sensor and the new sensor includes wiring all the way to the ABS or control module (I think). I hired it out rather than trying to spend hours and hours trying to determine which wheel sensor was bad and what the issues were. I'd be lost without my "wrench monkey advisors". | | | |
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Andy Berglund Tacoma, WA
 Veteran Member Posts:3453
 | | 16 May 2007 05:03 PM |
| are your lights on continuously now? did the lights come on after you changed your pads? sometimes, the chatter that non-LR pads create causes the system to think that something's up and cause intermittant faults like you're experiencing. FWIW, i have non-LR pads and haven't had an issue but many others have. also, i don't think anyone here is "soft" (except for peter. he capitulates with himself  ). i think it's more of a "don't piss where you drink" kinda thing. this isn't a national board so you're probably going to meet some of us at one time or another. one of those people might be a tech or you might really be up to your eyeballs in something and you'll need some tech's help to get your truck back on the road. we just don't want to see you burn bridges you've just started building, m'kay? but, you're an adult and can do as you wish. good luck with your truck. keep us posted. andy | | | |
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Jnorth
 New Member Posts:35
 | | 16 May 2007 05:40 PM |
| yeah man you right and like i said no disrespect intended by the whole wrench mokey thing i have had some bad runins with a few different loc shops when i was younger and thats why i learned to build um and fix um my self .... but they come on every now and again then when i shut her down they go away , dosent seem to be affecting and of the ride itself so i hope just some sensor .. I will be bringing it in the shop some time next week i think to get the ecu read and no the new pads didnt change anything | | | |
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Josh Bohm
 New Member Posts:57
 | | 16 May 2007 06:57 PM |
| my three friends have been on for a while now too, i have just got around to calling the jag shop in portland (cheapest to read codes around here, that i have found) to diganose it for me. but i would like to get some opinions on what you guys think is wrong if anything. OK so when i was driving back from Florida i had a 6x12 uhaul trailer on the back of my rover, i think i was in arizona and i had to take a leak, it was late so i pulled to the side of the freeway, as i slowed down i drove on those wake-up ruts on the side of the freeway(not sure what they are really called) and thats when they came on, with all that vibration from the truck and trailer. what i have thought is that it jarred one of the wheel sensors. am i right? or does the sensor have to go bad to throw these codes? any help/advise/ comments are appreciated. like i said im getting it check out monday or tuesday, but should i just have them reset the codes and see if they come back? | | | |
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Andy Berglund Tacoma, WA
 Veteran Member Posts:3453
 | | 16 May 2007 07:05 PM |
| josh-
the codes can be read and cleared. write it down and then search it on dweb or here for its interpretation. the wake up ruts could have caused a fault. i haven't had the pleasure of replacing a sensor but it's my understanding that they can get fouled and not actually be "broken" per se.
jason-
just to be clear, the lights were turning on before you changed the pads? are your ABS sensor wires rubbing against anything and chafing? the two ABS sensor leads on the front axle both chafed against each wheel causing the wiring to be exposed and throw codes. once i patched the leads the codes were resolved and haven't come back since. one required a dealer reset and the other just reset itself.
andy
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Josh Bohm
 New Member Posts:57
 | | 16 May 2007 07:18 PM |
| thanks andy, that was my plan just have them read, then cleared and 1)check on the codess, 2) see if they come back on and then go ahead and make a repair if needed | | | |
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