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Trophy style winch mount
Last Post 24 Oct 2011 08:57 AM byLuca Mac. 30 Replies.
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Peter SchuldtUser is Offline
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15 Jan 2011 11:23 PM  

 I am making 2 Camel Trophy style winch boxes. They are for Discovery 1's and mount very far in requiring a trim to the grill. They may also work for RR Classics. I have the parts drawn in CAD and will post renderings tomorrow. I am having the pieces laser or plasma cut. 

I would be happy to make as many sets as there is demand for. The more I have made the lower the price for each set. These will be unpainted steel "weld your own" kits. 

The bottom plates will have no holes as there are many winch patterns. I will have the laser cutter put divots in all the patterns I can find so it will be easy to drill the mount pattern on the drill press or even with a hand drill.

 



Peter SchuldtUser is Offline
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16 Jan 2011 10:14 AM  
I have found that using a superwinch husky requires removing the crush cans. If you want to use a husky or have the option in the feature please tell me.
Peter


Peter SchuldtUser is Offline
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16 Jan 2011 03:25 PM  

 Here is the box. As there are a few winch mount hole patterns the bottom plate will come with divots where the different  hole patterns may be. You the end user will chose the hole locations you need and drill them with a drill press or hand drill.  The divots make easy starting locations.


Attachment: Camel Winch Box render front 1.JPG
Attachment: Camel Winch Box render front.JPG
Attachment: Camel Winch Box render rear.JPG

Peter SchuldtUser is Offline
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17 Jan 2011 11:48 AM  

 Here is a rendering of the final hole layout. This will accomodate Warn, Mile Marker, and any other winch with a 10 x 4.5 spacing. 


Attachment: Camel Winch render w BOM.JPG

Alex KoganUser is Offline
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17 Jan 2011 12:11 PM  

Won't fit Hydraulic Mile Marker. They have motor on the opposite side. What's the purpose of those small extra plates on the sides and between winch and fair-lead. Seems like unnecessary extra expense! Keep it simple less cutting == less $$$




Alex KoganUser is Offline
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17 Jan 2011 12:25 PM  
Also just speaking from experience. I built one for my hydraulic MileMarker. You might want to lower the opening for the cable. I can't tell exact dimensions from your pics but I experienced that with 3/8 and full drum it will grind into that edge.  I had to cut mine after initial test. that might be particularly bad with synthetic line.

 



Peter SchuldtUser is Offline
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17 Jan 2011 04:30 PM  
Moving the side plates to the out side of the frame rails is a good idea. My co conspirator is making a clone trophy truck so we are keeping the design true to the original. The side spacers allow for the best bumper trim. I can have front plates cut with any opening that is desired.


Brett CurryUser is Offline
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18 Jan 2011 07:10 AM  
I would be interested in knowing what kind of pricing you're looking at. Also if it would in fact fit a RRC?


Peter SchuldtUser is Offline
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18 Jan 2011 10:28 AM  
The first quote is $95 for all the steel parts. I figure $20 will cover shipping. And fasteners will be $15 if I provide them (Grade 8). The front clips and frame are the same on a D1 and RRC. I expect that the box will fit fine. It may not fit back as far into the grill but it should mount just fine. This mount does require moving the transmission oil cooler up a few inches and re routing the lines. I have a simple solution for my truck as it is a 5 speed and the R380 runs a low pressure pump. I need to research the pressure the ZF puts out.


Peter SchuldtUser is Offline
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18 Jan 2011 11:14 AM  
Moving the oil cooler and rerouting the lines will be easy. Hose clamps will hold the lines. The older RRC's came with hose clamp connections from the factory only the newer ones are swaged. I will provide complete documentation on how to modify 5spd and auto box trucks.


Peter SchuldtUser is Offline
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18 Jan 2011 01:22 PM  

 Here are some pictures. One is a clumsy depiction of where the side plates mount to the frame. It is not as simple as displacing the cooler lines the cooler its self has to go up a little. The second picture shows where I plan to cut the cooler lines to move it up.


Attachment: 100_3872.JPG
Attachment: 100_3873.JPG

Alex KoganUser is Offline
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18 Jan 2011 02:50 PM  
I'd strongly advise against flex lines. There are no barbs on cut-off hard lines to hold hoses even remotely well. So you are always running risk of loosing connection. Actually at high pressures you are almost guarantied that. Catastrophic engine failure trails not far behind. If you have to cut those use hard lines with compression fittings. You can get all that stuff at any parts store.


Craig MillerUser is Offline
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18 Jan 2011 03:29 PM  

Hopefully Todd will chime in here. He's gone through this already. I think he wound up with braided lines after first trying a soft line.



Todd EliasonUser is Online
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18 Jan 2011 03:56 PM  
Yep, I blew a few lines until we finally got it right. If you can do hard line extensions you will be happier. if going with soft lines, get really good clamps and flare the connections if possible.


Craig MillerUser is Offline
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18 Jan 2011 04:15 PM  
Todd - did you go with hard lines or braided?


Todd EliasonUser is Online
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18 Jan 2011 04:31 PM  

I threw my hands up in disgust and took it to Columbia Rovers. I'll have to see what finally held next time i'm there.

I had a hard time getting the rubber hoses and hose clamps to hold.



Peter SchuldtUser is Offline
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19 Jan 2011 10:56 AM  
I am going to flare the ends of the hard lines and use rubber tube. Mine will be easy as the pressure is low. For auto box trucks I woul dbe intrested to know what lines CR used. It would not be hard to take the existing hard lines to a hydrolic shop and have braded lines swaged on.


Todd EliasonUser is Online
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19 Jan 2011 11:00 AM  

They are not low pressure lines. I found that out the hard way...

I had a LR Auto box ad had all kinds of issues with the cooler lines, not just the grill cooler, but also replacing the under vehicle lines to the cooler.  separate incidents but troubling all the same.



Peter SchuldtUser is Offline
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19 Jan 2011 02:07 PM  
The R380 5 speed I have is a low pressure system. The Auto Box will require more thought. What kind of hose were you using when you had the blow out?


Todd EliasonUser is Online
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19 Jan 2011 03:00 PM  
The hose didn't blow, it just kept becoming unconnected. If you flare them and use good clamps, you should be OK.


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