RESQNU
New Member
Posts:46
 | | 18 Oct 2011 02:15 PM |
| So, my K-5 was an AWESOME truck. Like I mentioned in my introduction post, I have never really been into crawling or mudding. I am more an explorer than a mud slinger. That being said... it was time for a change. I scooped up my Suburban about two weeks ago (in the ballpark of $1100) and love it! The motor has been built and the rest of the truck is stock. It will get the same lift my K-5 has, a 6" suspension and 35/12.50-15s. Although, this time around I am going with a more universal off road tire. The Boggers were great, but just a tad too purpose built for mud and were like sideways skis in the snow. (Any input on a good tire and why would be appreciated.) <!--[if gte mso 9]>Normal0MicrosoftInternetExplorer4 <!--[if gte mso 9]>Normal0MicrosoftInternetExplorer4 Exterior:[ ] ORD Tube Front Winch Bumper (Powder Coat Matte Desert Tan)[ ] Warn Winch 68500 9.5XP[ ] DIY4X Tube Doors (Summer Only - Matte Desert Tan)[ ] ORD Rear Tube Bumper (Powder Coat Matte Desert Tan)[ ] Safari Snorkel, Custom (Paint Matte Desert Tan)[ ] Safari Rack, Custom (Powder Coat Matte Black)[X] Remove Running Boards[ ] Fill Trim, Visor, & Running Board Holes[ ] Shave Power Mirror Mounting[ ] Repair & Repaint Truck Body (Matte Desert Tan)[ ] Repaint Grille (Matte Desert Tan)[X] Replace Power Mirrors w/ Manual Mirrors[ ] Repaint Side Mirrors (Matte Desert Tan)[ ] Powder Coat Door Hardware (Matte Desert Tan)[ ] New Headlights[ ] New Park/Turn Lights[ ] New Side Marker Lights[ ] New Taillights[X] Unity Spotlight (Paint/Powder Coat Matte Desert Tan)[ ] Whelen PAR-46 LED Unity Replacement Bulb[ ] Rigid LED Off-Road Lights (Matte Desert Tan, Bumper Mounted)[ ] Rigid LED Flood Lights (Rack Mounted: 1 per Corner)[ ] 4” Suspension Lift (ProComp or Skyjacker)[ ] Dual Shock Steering Stabilizer[ ] Ultra Type 164 Wheels (Powder Coat Matte Desert Tan)[ ] 33” BFGoodrich Mud-Terrain Tires[ ] NMO HAM Antenna (Black, Roof Mounted)[ ] NMO CB Antenna (Black, Roof or Hood Bracket Mounted) [ ] Transmission Cooler[ ] Oil Cooler[ ] Dual Battery System[ ] High Output AlternatorInterior: [ ] Replace Headliner (Black)[ ] Paint All Plastic Trim (Black)[ ] Paint All Metal Trim (Black)[ ] Replace Dash w/ DIY4X Aluminum Racing Dash (Powder Coated Black w/ Matte Desert Tan Gauge Panel)[ ] Black Gauges [ ] Recover All Seats (Black w/ Black Carpet Backing on Rear Seats)[ ] New Carpet (Cargo Area, Black)[ ] Line-X Floor, Black (Firewall to floor step.)[ ] Replace Seatbelts (Black or Tan)[ ] Tread Plate Lower Door Panels[ ] Tread Plate Rear Door Panels[ ] Tread Plate Rear Side Panels/Boxes[ ] Tread Plate Locking Center Storage Box (w/ Cup Holders & Fire Extinguisher)[ ] Tread Plate Power Distribution Enclosure[ ] Tread Plate Trash Can[ ] Tread Plate Locking Enclosure w/ ProGard Shotgun Lock Inside (Double Safety)[ ] Cobra Custom 29LX CB Radio[ ] Yaesu FT-7900R HAM Radio[ ] Power Inverter w/ Dual 110 Outlet (In Cargo Area Box)[ ] Dual 12v Power Outlets (In Cargo Area Box)[ ] Dual 12v Power Outlets (In Dash)[X] Federal Signal SS2000SM (For lighting controls and 100w PA system.)[X] Unitrol 80k Amp (For electronic air horn.)[X] RAM Laptop Mount w/ Toughbook[X] Cobra Power Inverter (For Toughbook)[X] RAM GPS Suction Mount w/ Garmin Nuvi 760 GPS[X] RAM iPhone Suction Mount (For video purposes.)[X] Sound Off Dual Purpose Dome Light[X] Federal Signal LED Map Light[ ] Red LED Accent Lighting Under Dash (Driver & Passenger)[ ] Red LED Accent Lighting Under Rear Seats (Driver & Passenger)[ ] Red LED Accent Lighting @ Rear Doors[X] Lg. Coleman Cooler (To be replaced with ARB fridge.)[ ] ARB Fridge w/ Strap Down Base[ ] Zodi Hot Tap On-Demand Hot Water Heater[ ] Camp Shower Head w/ Water Line (Used with the Zodi.) [ ] Texsport Camp Shower Privacy Enclosure[ ] Bumper Dumper 2" Receiver Toilet (w/ 100% Biodegradable Waste Bags)[X] Coleman 2-Burner Camp Stove[X] Custom CharBroil 2" Receiver BBQ Safety (In-Vehicle Hard Mounted Items, Not Kit Items): [X] Streamlight LED E-Spot Firebox Flashlight w/ DC Charger[X] Streamlight LED Stinger Flashlight w/ DC Charger, Traffic Cone, & 3 Batteries[X] Lg. Fire Extinguisher (Cargo Area Mounted)
[ ] Sm. Chrome Fire Extinguisher (Center Console Mounted)
<!--[if gte mso 9]>Normal0MicrosoftInternetExplorer4Any input is greatly appreciated! I know this looks like a huge list, but a lot of it is body and interior reworking. Not gear that will clutter up my rig on the trail. The items I do carry with me are highly organized. I am a bit OCD that way. Pretty much everything on this list will be dedicated to this vehicle, so routine camping gear is not listed (i.e. clothes, cookware, and what not). |
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Jay Erickson
Advanced Member
Posts:812
| | 19 Oct 2011 04:08 AM |
| Slick, looking forward to your continued build. |
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Craig Miller
Posts:11803
| | 19 Oct 2011 04:25 AM |
| You're a good doodler. :) |
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Dale Avery
Advanced Member
Posts:684
| | 19 Oct 2011 06:56 AM |
| Why are you getting rid of the power mirrors? Of all the electrical Power crap put on vehicles today, I think that power mirrors do have a positive function. I learned this a long time ago while attending a Land Rover (me? Land Rover? Say it isn't so!) off-road driving course. That right hand power mirror really comes in handy when you are driving alone and need to see what you are backing into. Being able to move it around and scope out the ground cover, possible outcrops, etc., is a great tool. The driver's side mirror is almost that useful when powered. Some people like the new wide-angle cameras in the back of their vehicles. My experience from my surface mining days was that they tended to be a PIA. Had to constantly keep them cleam of dust, mud, etc. Just my $0.02 worth......I'll crawl back under the rock again. |
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RESQNU
New Member
Posts:46
| | 19 Oct 2011 08:31 AM |
| Jay: Thanks! Me too.
Craig: Thanks! I'm a very visual person.
Dale: I went away from the power mirrors on this application for a couple of reasons. The first and foremost being the cost of replacing them if damaged. They are not too common and cost three times (used) what the new manual mirrors to. In addition, they just aren't as solid, in my opinion, as the manual mirrors. They are about 1/3 the size of the manual mirrors and block a 4"x6" corner of the window (literally with the window having a black-out area painted on it), which the manual mirrors do not. I liked the motorized functionality of the powers, but I'll take the over-sized visibility of the manuals any day. Further more, I am replacing the 'junk-yard' manuals I installed (@ $10 each) for a set of heated manuals from LMC Truck (which Chevy never offered for this year manual or power). Thanks fort the $0.02 worth! |
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Rob Stewart
Basic Member
Posts:430
| | 19 Oct 2011 09:58 AM |
| Very cool build. Are you drawing some of your inspiration from Sub the movie Dante's Peak? I always thought that thing was really cool 
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Craig Miller
Posts:11803
| | 19 Oct 2011 01:02 PM |
| And it can drive on LAVA! Most bad-ASS Suburban eva! LOL |
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RESQNU
New Member
Posts:46
| | 19 Oct 2011 02:37 PM |
| Posted By Rob Stewart on 10/19/2011 9:58 AM Very cool build. Are you drawing some of your inspiration from Sub the movie Dante's Peak? I always thought that thing was really cool
Now I think I am going to have to watch that movie! lol That is a cool Sub! ... Oh man... I just thought of a cheesey line... "It's so dang cool that it's Sub-zero!" *snare hit* Okay... I have my moments. |
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Amos Aarsvold
Basic Member
Posts:160
| | 19 Oct 2011 06:41 PM |
| Beware of your height during this build if you are wanting to explore Western Washington trails. My truck tops out at 7'8' without anything on my rack it gets whacked constantly. A 6" lift is going to be pushing it with that rack loaded up with full Jerry cans. I would strongly suggest finding a way to load the heaviest stuff as low as possible (tailgate mounts?) and also consider all four seasons for your water storage. For what its worth, I have experienced a noticeable difference in handling when I put a single full 5gal water jug on my roof rack. One way to minimize the effect and still store fuel/water on your roof rack is to go with Rotopax containers.
As far as tires go... I would recommend Toyo M/T's. They are heavier than most, but they have performed well on everything but sheet ice for me. |
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Morris Yarnell
Advanced Member
Posts:771
| | 19 Oct 2011 06:58 PM |
| The 4 gal Rotopax container at $109... or 5 Nato cans at $20 each (less expendature) to hold 25 gal. If they are in a roof rack on their sides and not on end (realizing that 4 gal is about 25 lb and 25 gal is about 162 lb) most roof racks will be able to hold that weight, it's the mounting of the rack that is in question. Hefting 40 lb off a roof rack is not always a great idea. Keeping them on the tail gate or even inside (nato cans don't leak, unlike jeep cans) is not out of the question. Just have to fashion a way to keep them stable, either inside or out. |
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RESQNU
New Member
Posts:46
| | 19 Oct 2011 08:30 PM |
| I have been doing some digging today at various truck outfitters and am starting to wonder if I need the roof rack anyway. It's not like my rig is small. As for tailgate stuff, I am dealing with ambulance doors, so I am looking at options. Thanks for the input though. Now you got me thinking... |
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RESQNU
New Member
Posts:46
| | 19 Oct 2011 09:06 PM |
| Posted By Amos Aarsvold on 10/19/2011 6:41 PM
Beware of your height during this build if you are wanting to explore Western Washington trails. My truck tops out at 7'8' without anything on my rack it gets whacked constantly. A 6" lift is going to be pushing it with that rack loaded up with full Jerry cans. I would strongly suggest finding a way to load the heaviest stuff as low as possible (tailgate mounts?) and also consider all four seasons for your water storage. For what its worth, I have experienced a noticeable difference in handling when I put a single full 5gal water jug on my roof rack. One way to minimize the effect and still store fuel/water on your roof rack is to go with Rotopax containers.
As far as tires go... I would recommend Toyo M/T's. They are heavier than most, but they have performed well on everything but sheet ice for me.
So, are you thinking 4" with 33s would be better? I have been tossing that around too. I am not going all crazy with my truck. Due to width I can't take it in insane places anyway without risking a total body beat down. It's not like it has a bad stance stock, so any lift would be killer I think.
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Mike Block
Advanced Member
Posts:700
| | 19 Oct 2011 10:23 PM |
| Posted By Tony Pelham on 10/19/2011 9:06 PM Posted By Amos Aarsvold on 10/19/2011 6:41 PM
Beware of your height during this build if you are wanting to explore Western Washington trails. My truck tops out at 7'8' without anything on my rack it gets whacked constantly. A 6" lift is going to be pushing it with that rack loaded up with full Jerry cans. I would strongly suggest finding a way to load the heaviest stuff as low as possible (tailgate mounts?) and also consider all four seasons for your water storage. For what its worth, I have experienced a noticeable difference in handling when I put a single full 5gal water jug on my roof rack. One way to minimize the effect and still store fuel/water on your roof rack is to go with Rotopax containers.
As far as tires go... I would recommend Toyo M/T's. They are heavier than most, but they have performed well on everything but sheet ice for me.[/quote]
So, are you thinking 4" with 33s would be better? I have been tossing that around too. I am not going all crazy with my truck. Due to width I can't take it in insane places anyway without risking a total body beat down. It's not like it has a bad stance stock, so any lift would be killer I think.
You may want to consider a 4 " lift with 35" tire, you can trim the inside aft corner of the front fender. They will not rub. I did this many years go on my 84 K-5 Blazer and had no issues at all. |
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RESQNU
New Member
Posts:46
| | 19 Oct 2011 11:43 PM |
| Posted By Mike Block on 10/19/2011 10:23 PM Posted By Tony Pelham on 10/19/2011 9:06 PM Posted By Amos Aarsvold on 10/19/2011 6:41 PM
Beware of your height during this build if you are wanting to explore Western Washington trails. My truck tops out at 7'8' without anything on my rack it gets whacked constantly. A 6" lift is going to be pushing it with that rack loaded up with full Jerry cans. I would strongly suggest finding a way to load the heaviest stuff as low as possible (tailgate mounts?) and also consider all four seasons for your water storage. For what its worth, I have experienced a noticeable difference in handling when I put a single full 5gal water jug on my roof rack. One way to minimize the effect and still store fuel/water on your roof rack is to go with Rotopax containers.
As far as tires go... I would recommend Toyo M/T's. They are heavier than most, but they have performed well on everything but sheet ice for me.[/quote]
So, are you thinking 4" with 33s would be better? I have been tossing that around too. I am not going all crazy with my truck. Due to width I can't take it in insane places anyway without risking a total body beat down. It's not like it has a bad stance stock, so any lift would be killer I think.
[/quote]
You may want to consider a 4 " lift with 35" tire, you can trim the inside aft corner of the front fender. They will not rub. I did this many years go on my 84 K-5 Blazer and had no issues at all.[/quote] How much has to be trimmed? Does it still look clean when done and painted? Do you by chance have a pic? Lastly, any mod needed for the rear? |
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Amos Aarsvold
Basic Member
Posts:160
| | 20 Oct 2011 08:33 PM |
| Is this just a weekend vehicle or is it a daily driver? How sensitive are you to gas prices? What is your intended purpose?
If your answer to the first two questions are that you drive it quite often and are trying to save where you can at the pump, go with 33" tires. Didn't it come with 33" stock? If the older Chevy's are anything like the new ones, I would get a leveling kit for the front and upgrade to HD rear leafs (you're talking about quite a bit of cargo weight for the rear) instead of going for a total lift. Lifts = Headaches and $$ maintenance in my experience; they look cool but can end up being cumbersome everywhere but on trails that demand them. If you plan on primarily doing NWOS trail runs you are not going to need much in the way of clearance over what your rig already has. This is where the third question comes into play... if it is for just casual, yet prepared, fun with "the guys" a good set of 33's are probably more than enough. If you are building a dual purpose rig with preparations in mind then think about where you intend to go, the reasonable obstacles you intend to overcome to get there, and how much attention you intend to bring upon yourself in doing so. Judging from your initial list I am going to assume you are thinking somewhere between the two. No matter what, have fun with it. I should be a fun build! |
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Mike Block
Advanced Member
Posts:700
| | 20 Oct 2011 08:50 PM |
| Sorry no pics of my old Blazer that was back in 1989. You could not tell at all by looking at the rig if it had been trimmed. The inside corner is very square and you can take about 2 inches off. The only thing with your rig being so long is the break over angle, I would think you would want a suspension lift and 35s. If you do a suspension lift only use springs front and rear no blocks they cause axle wrap.Thats what I would do but thats me, like Amos stated have fun with it! |
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RESQNU
New Member
Posts:46
| | 20 Oct 2011 09:19 PM |
| Thanks guys... yeah, this rig is mostly only doing the NWOS stuff. I am not into tearing up the outdoors, I'm not a crawler, and deep mud just isn't my thing either. That being said; I want the end goal to be a very capable expedition rig. I would like to be able to get just about anywhere I need to. I am leaning toward the 4" + 33s.
As for the lift type. I had a spring and block 6" lift in my K-5. I never had an issue with it, except the Chevy sag in the rear. I wouldn't use blocks again as a result. The Suburban is getting front and rear springs. It is my daily now, but won't be for long. The girlfriend is driving my sedan, but will be getting her Cooper soon. I am not too worried about mileage, as I still drive the sedan a lot now. |
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MtnClimber
New Member
Posts:1
| | 21 Oct 2011 07:13 PM |
| Have you thought about 3/4 ton axles? That's alot of weight for those 1/2 ton axles. Being a 1990, is it solid axle or IFS? You could get a 9.5" IFS from a 2500 or 3500. I got a 1989 3500 parts truck, came with 9.5" IFS and a D70. Hard to break! :D
A 14FF or a D60 in the rear will be much more reassuring and last [b]ALOT[/b] longer.
You [i]should[/i] be able to fit 33's with only slight trimming of the bumper & valance. However once loaded and/or articulating, it'll rub. So a 4" lift should suffice.
Just my .o2c |
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Mike Block
Advanced Member
Posts:700
| | 21 Oct 2011 09:56 PM |
| For the rear you can get a C clip eliminator kit for about $150.00. That way if you break an axle it wont walk out on you. The 12 bolt rear end is pretty stout if moded properly. When going to school in CO I worked for a shop that made professional racecar parts www.markwilliams.co and sold a ton of stuff for the 12 bolt. |
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Mike Block
Advanced Member
Posts:700
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