OK, so where do I put this thing?  Pics?

Hey, what a fine example of a Tactical Dispatch Unit.  He must have gotten an Interoperability grant.

After test mounting several spots (one of which was stupid, two of which could have been done, but were complicated) I have settled on simply mounting it on the dash board.  I've thought up a way to do it so that when I'm not using it, I can pull it out in a matter of 3-5 minutes, and the truck will look totally normal.  I want to use a stud and screw system to mount the radio cradle to the dash as seen in the photo.  I'll bring the cables up and across the back of the dash, tucked in against the window, they will hardly be noticed once wrapped up nicely.  I'll also make the cables so that they are easy to remove from the truck without going through the firewall, etc, etc...

My question is this: I want to use a stud/screw/spacer system to mount the radio bracket to the dash, but how can I be sure to do it correctly so as not to tear out the mounts with the weight of the radio? 

One way to do it will be to use rubber spacers front and back to take some of the weight and shock off the screws, so the screws will mainly be to hold it down, they won't need to be real tight.   But I'm worried about the dash board breaking apart at the point where the screws/studs enter into it. 

Question: How deep can I go in at that point (under the rubber tray) before breaking out below, and into the stereo cavity?  Or, maybe I do want to go all the way through and pull the stereo out, and put a bracket in underneath?

Note, not only is this spot the easiest for visibility, and for adjusting the radio.  But I tested it with the GPS and with the handset installed.  I found that the coiled cord for the handset drops down at just the right spot so that it doesn't get in the way of the stereo or climate control buttons.

Ben,

I mounted the RAM mount for my 7" UMPC in the same spot. Pull the stereo out and you'll see that you have plenty of room to work. I put a large square backing plate under mine that helped distribute the tension across a larger area. With that big HAM bracket you won't have any trouble there though.

If you could secure a large backing plate under the dash, with nuts tacked onto it. You could use thumbscrews through the HAM bracket, through the dash, and into the tacked nuts. That would hold it no problem. Big, backing plate to distribute the tension (but not too thick).

The dash flexes a bit, so the bigger the backing plate the happier you'll be.
 

Oh, and you can run the antenna cable up the A pillar, and out the hole where the roofrails attach.

Craig

Thanks, Craig, I pretty much have this worked out with your confirmation of what's under that spot. Do you have photos?
 

Questions:

1. Do you know if the hole for the roof rack is the same as on an earlier DII?
2. How does your antenna cable make it's final exit into open air from that point without any water leaks?
3. How does one get the radio out?

Ben,

Do you have the workshop manual or RAVE? If not, PM me your email address and I will send over the sheet detailing the radio removal. You have to have the removal tools (you can find them online) to get it out. Some people have done it with alternate tools, but seems like it might tweak things a bit.

I am looking through the CD about the roof rack issue for you as well. Have you considered a bumper mount for the antenna so that you do not create any open to the air issues?

Dustin

Ben,

I have the pages on the roof bar issue as well. Not sure how Craig did it, but everything I see in the manual involves interaction with the headliner to access the point he is describing. Does not look fun to me.

I have them ready to come your way if you need them.

Dustin

OK...cool. The tool part number is 86-006 (Land Rover Part #).

Sounds like you have it dialed. Good luck.

Dustin

Sorry, no pics of the inside.  Just the final product.

I don't know if they are the same.  Use a rounded file to create a small hole at the base of the load bar mount.

Silcone Sealant.

The little slits on each side of the radio.  Slip something long and flat in, and it will depress the metal clip that holds it in place.  Then slide it out.  It's possible to do one side at a time.  They sell special tools for this, but you can be resourceful and find something around the house.

Ben,

The front bumper is by far the easiest place to run the antenna to.  I mounted my antenna on the rear spare tire carrier though.  Went out the rear wiper squirter hole, just as you describe. My entire route was:

My radio was under the seat base, so I went up the B pillar with the antenna wire, in the factory wiring harness along the roof, across the roof where the 3rd row headrests go, down the D pillar behind the trim by the rear door trim, through the rubber grommet/loom that goes into the rear door, out the squirter hole and to the rear tire carrier antenna mount.

My suggestion would be to start from the rear. The Diamond antenna mounts/cables have a large connector on one end, and a smaller connector on the other end with an adapter to make it larger again. Starting from the rear, so you are working with the small connector is the only option that will work.

To do it right, you are going to want to remove some of the interior panels. They are a trick to figure out the first time, but all of them come out really easy once you know where all the connectors are. You won't need to drop the headliner to run it along this route.

Craig

Get some good coax!  Some of the marine grade stuff handles weather and other out door issues better than the cheaper Radio Shack cr*p.

Oh, mounting the ham radio! The "Ham" is the operator I thought. Imagined this was a different kind of thread. My advice might be seen as inappropriate in this case :-p.