Nikolas Olguin
 | | 02/07/2007 9:39 AM |
 Alert | I had/have been following two OME lifts for my D2 on dweb and ebay - Both are takeoffs having been used 8000 miles and 6000 miles. Both are priced at 425 shipped.
My question is, is it worth saving 180 dollars and getting a used set of springs and shocks? Would I be better off by buying new and having that peace of mind?
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Andy Berglund
| | 02/07/2007 9:54 AM |
Alert | i've heard that OME "settles" a bit more than a comparable RTE lift, so there's that to consider. are both kits the same in terms of springs and shock models? that's something to consider, too. both sets of springs should be done "settling" in at those miles.
as someone who has done this before (RTE 2"), i suggest going straight to the RTE 3" with your choice of shocks. if you stick if OME, it's unlikely you'll have the articulation that requires new brakelines, ABS sensor extensions, etc.
my .02
andy
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I am loving the Gilmore Girls-Scott Williams | |
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Dan Cronin
Moderator
| | 02/07/2007 10:47 AM |
Alert | Go new.
Go RTE 3". | |
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Nikolas Olguin
| | 02/07/2007 10:54 AM |
Alert | Is this the 3" lift you are talking about?
3" Lift with Bilstein 7100 Series Shocks (For RRC, D90, D1 and DII)
# Bilstein 7100 series shocks $720.00
# RTE springs $295.00
# Front shock towers $96.00
# Front lower shock mounts $35.00
# Rear shock mounts $155.00
# Rear spring retainers $35.00
# Brake lines $22.00 each
DII lifts include:
# ABS Extensions $75
# Crossmember Spacers $30
# Bilstein Reducer Bushings $40
Kit Price for DII - $1263 | | | |
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Nikolas Olguin
| | 02/07/2007 10:57 AM |
Alert | | Is there a cheaper alternative to those Bilstein shocks? | | | |
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Craig Miller
Title Sponsor
| | 02/07/2007 11:15 AM |
Alert | RTE also sells Rancho 9000s, or you can get Fox shocks, or custom valved Bilstein 5100s. If I did it again, I'd go with the custom valved 5100s.
Have you decided what size tires you might want to run. That will help you decide which lift to get more than anything.
Once you've decided that... If you are looking to save a few bucks, go for an RTE 2 inch lift with OME shocks. The 3 inch lift will add considerable extra expense. With the 3 inch lift you will also find yourself considering an adjustable panhard rod, extended radius arms, and an upgraded rear drive shaft. The 2 inch lift, "just works". The 2" lift is more conservative but still fits up to a 265/75 tire. If you can afford it, and want to run a bigger tire, go for the 3" lift. Other than my Bilstein 7100 woes, I love the 3" lift.
One set of reference points. OME 2" is a 1.5" lift RTE 2" is a 2.5" lift RTE 3" is a 3.5 to 4" lift. | |
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Isaac Fain
| | 02/07/2007 11:20 AM |
Alert | 1" aluminum spacer, and then go ARB front and rear.
lifts are way over rated ... | |
I'm sorry, I couldn't hear you over the noise of how awesome I am. | |
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Nikolas Olguin
| | 02/07/2007 12:49 PM |
Alert | | I have the 265/75s now and sometime I rub in the back if I drop off of something - The price of the 3" route shocked me a bit...such a jump from the 2" | | | |
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Mike Rupp
Member Sponsor
| | 02/07/2007 4:37 PM |
Alert | | If you plan on sticking with the 265s, I'd get an OME lift. I'm not sure of the exact springs (could be 751s and 762s), but you can get about a 2.5" lift that works great with a heavy bumper and winch. I put a lift on Scott Sayes' truck, which is a decent all around lift. | |
WZ7V
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Andy Berglund
| | 02/07/2007 4:50 PM |
Alert | nik-
the RTE 3" costs more because it comes with super nice bilstein shocks. overkill imho. i've been satisfied and haven't had any issues with my RTE 2" plus 1" spacer apart from wishing i had gone with 3" springs the first time. i got new abs sensors only because the fronts were too short. i didn't need brake extensions but i thought "why not" at that point. i've removed my front crossmember altogether and haven't had any real issues yet and i know i'm not the only one. the shocks i'm running are the extended length procomp shocks which were about the same price for four as a single bilstein. for the type of wheeling i do, i've decided that until i've got all the traction i need i don't need bilstein. you might decide differently.
either way, it sounds like the deal on dweeb went super sketch. go with RTE 3" and shocks of your choice. replace other junk (like ABS sensors, brakelines, radius or trailing arms) as needed. an RTE 3" lift for a D2 could be as cheap as shocks and springs, depending on how your D2 was built.
Have you decided what size tires you might want to run. That will help you decide which lift to get more than anything.
that's probably the best advice. start from the ground and work up.
andy | |
I am loving the Gilmore Girls-Scott Williams | |
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Mike Rupp
Member Sponsor
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Andy Berglund
| | 02/07/2007 6:06 PM |
Alert | Posted By Mike Rupp on 02/07/2007 5:11 PM
Keep in mind that with a 3" RTE lift, vibes are probable.
correct, and this is when you start down the road towards new radius/trailing arms, reworking the rear driveshaft, etc. while it isn't set in stone, i've read (fwiw) of enough D2s that have 3" lifts without vibes that i think it would be worth doing it. i have about 3" on mine and i haven't had any real issues. granted, my commute is only about 5 miles round trip and i don't work 5 days a week so my mileage might have something to do with the lack of issues. also, not having the transmission keeps things vibe free 
andy | |
I am loving the Gilmore Girls-Scott Williams | |
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Isaac Fain
| | 02/07/2007 6:51 PM |
Alert | Posted By Mike Rupp on 02/07/2007 5:11 PM
Keep in mind that with a 3" RTE lift, vibes are probable.
DII - no vibes. i ran 4" on my RRC with the DII front CV drive shaft  | |
I'm sorry, I couldn't hear you over the noise of how awesome I am. | |
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Mike Rupp
Member Sponsor
| | 02/07/2007 7:25 PM |
Alert | Isaac, maybe I need to dig out some old emails that I had back and forth with Craig about vibes.
My reasoning behind the OME lift or 2" RTE is that they will not make a D2 vibe and they work fine for 32" tires. There is no reason to go higher than a ~2" lift unless you want to go to 33s. Then we get into all other kinds of issues: gears, cvs, radius arms, etc. | |
WZ7V
Study for amateur radio exams here
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Nikolas Olguin
| | 02/07/2007 8:30 PM |
Alert | Thanks for all the info here guys...I dont think I plan on moving over 32" tires....I dont think...I guess the best thing for me to do is take some time and do some soul searching and decide how far I plan on taking this truck...
Trucks are no different than cars....Every car I've owned went through extensive mods. I never expected to get into modding this thing!
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Ben Bailey
| | 02/07/2007 8:35 PM |
Alert | I want to hijack this thread a bit.
It is a lift question though. I am probably going to get a newer RRC. I drive about 40+ miles per day, I am on road 99.9% of the time. I do go off-road about 1 or 2 times per month, but mostly just fun light to medium stuff -- I loath damage... I hate getting my truck damaged... I get very angry when something bad happens... anyway...
I'm thinking for the new RRC: I want to keep my ARB bumper and my 9000# winch, I want to run 245/75's or 235/85's, but I want to also keep a soft on-road ride. So, the dilema is to get something that won't get beat up by the weight of the winch, bumper, and camping gear, but that will provide as close to a stock feel as possible. I don't want to go past 2-2.5" because of the long term effects that may have on drive train/vibes, etc...
Suggestions? | |
RBBailey
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Andy Berglund
| | 02/07/2007 9:10 PM |
Alert | nik-
i too have a vibeless D2 higher than 2" but YMMV...
ben-
i've always wondered how a truck would ride with 3" medium rate springs loaded the way you describe. does your RRC have sways or can they be retrofitted? it might be a bit marshmellowy but at the same time, it might give you what you're looking for. also, koni makes shocks for LR products now with adjustable rate compression and rebound. cheaper than the blingsteins and maybe helpful to dial in the ride.
andy | |
I am loving the Gilmore Girls-Scott Williams | |
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Rick Lindgren
| | 02/09/2007 7:24 PM |
Alert | Nik,
Ask yourself why you want a lift. Then go with the minimum to meet your needs. This approach should save you from some, but maybe not all, of the "unexpected upgrades".
Are you looking for a sexy, macho rig? Do you have a specific obstacle that always stops you cold and you need 34" tires to conquer it? Get the biggest lift possible. Do you just want to be able to clear 32" tires? Go with a 2" OME lift. It is proven and simple. Not sexy, just simple, and avoids most of the extra stuff that is required to go the extra distance to a 3" lift. You can always decide to go higher later if you want to bite off the extra work.
If you want bigger tires, run the numbers and figure out how high you need to go. Work with someone like RTE that know their product and have different options to meet the lift you need for your specific requirements.
The only reason I did a lift at all was for 32" tires because there were a wide range of AT and MT tires in that size and it gave a smidge more ground clearance. So I went with OME and have never had a problem. Craig went for 3" and had a lot of initial tweaking that needed to be done. Dan has gone a lot higher on a D1 and has had to do a lot of tweaking. Isaac went great big and sold his truck when he started to consider sitting in the garage with the truck running and just letting his mods quietly end with the smell of exhaust.
My wife and I just recently had a baby and I'm sleep deprived so take my input with a grain of salt.
Rick | |
Finding my inner dirt again.... | |
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