Ben Bailey


 | | 06/30/2009 2:06 PM |
Alert | Need new front brakes. I'm willing to wait on the rears for another month or two. Of course, I could just go with stock. No problem. Just wondering if you have any specific recommendations for the DII. I do tow the 2600 lbs tent trailer over the mountains 5-6 times a year, other than the light trail use, I'm a pretty normal driver. I am also interested in how to keep them from squeeling. | | RBBailey Images Rovers | |
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Craig Miller Site Admin


 | | 06/30/2009 4:36 PM |
Alert | EBC Sport rotors and Genuine pads. If that's too much dinero, then any old OEM rotor replacement works fine and TRW pads are OEM. Mintex pads are a little softer, grab well, but don't wear as long as genuine/TRW.
Only look at synthetic/green stuff pads if you plan to be braking heavy and often. They don't grab until they heat up, so the first push of the pedal or two out of the garage is pretty poor.
Craig
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| My Overland Adventure Blog | |
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Mike Rupp


 | | 06/30/2009 4:48 PM |
Alert | x2 on the Greenstuff pads. They really aren't good pads for a truck that drives at slow speeds on a trail. They are much more suited to higher speed driving when the pads get nice and hot.
I've had the same issue on my Honda Pilot and Disco with the Greenstuff pads. Since my house is on a steep hill, I really have to ride the brakes and be really careful when leaving my house.
| | WZ7V
Study for amateur radio exams here
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Ben Bailey


 | | 06/30/2009 5:12 PM |
Alert | Any thoughts on slotted rotors? I guess the EBC are slotted, so you probably like them. I don't think I want the greenstuff pads, they would probably be good for the road trips and towing, but not nessisary.
How about anti-squeal techniques? | | RBBailey Images Rovers | |
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Craig Miller Site Admin


 | | 06/30/2009 6:04 PM |
Alert | Slotting and dimpling is fine, but cross drilling is bad. Slotted and dimpled rotors vent gases and help keep the rotors/pads cool. They also tend to scrape mud off the pads. The side effect is that you will eat up pads at a slightly higher rate.
My last set of rotors were EBC sport rotors. I had greenstuff on there first and didn't like them. Switched to genuine pads and they worked great. Last week I did some googling and wound up with solid OEM rotors and TRW/Lucas (not TRW plain) pads.
Why not the EBC rotors again? Well, I'd read somewhere that most people associate improved performance of "sport" rotors with the fact that braking improves right after a brake job. In reality, they claim, any set of new pads/rotors would have done the same thing. What the customer is experiencing is just new brakes, not sport brakes. So, I decided to give it a try this time. I have to say, so far the new stuff works just as good as the sport rotors for my application and I saved about 50% over the cost of another set of EBC rotors.
We'll see if I'm saying the same thing in 6mos or a year.
Craig
| | My Overland Adventure Blog | |
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Ben Bailey


 | | 06/30/2009 7:25 PM |
Alert | The rotors on my truck now are vented. That's OEM isn't it?
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Craig Miller Site Admin


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Ben Bailey


 | | 06/30/2009 10:02 PM |
Alert | | Hum.... I went vented on my last truck because solid discs were warping on me. (My '94) | | RBBailey Images Rovers | |
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Jason Keaton


 | | 06/30/2009 10:56 PM |
Alert | Stay away from the Greenstuffs. I didnt not have a good experience with longevity and like others have said they dont grab untill warmed up and even then the "grabing" feeling just isnt there like it was when stock. I got front no name rotors and rear brembos when I did the brake job with the greenstuffs a few years ago and the no name fronts ended up warping on me. Recently I switched to Mintex pads w/ Raybestos rotors for the front and kept the Brembo rear rotors. So far so good and I got front and rear Mintex shipped to my door for 86 bucks from JohnB on Discoweb. My .02 cents. Jason K | | 2004 Discovery II SE7 | |
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Craig Miller Site Admin


 | | 06/30/2009 11:15 PM |
Alert | I've never had any trouble with Brembo or other OEM rotors warping... that said, the EBC Sport rotors did work flawlessly for 2 years. If you have the money EBC Sport rotors (slotted/dimpled) and the TRW/Lucas pads (Same as OEM pads) work great.
Craig
| | My Overland Adventure Blog | |
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Mark Elfring Member Sponsor


 | | 06/30/2009 11:22 PM |
Alert | I'm with Craig. I had EBC slotted rotors on my D1, 135$ each ,stop the same as what was on their before and they warped within a year. Two weeks ago I replaced them with Brembo rotors. 155$ for all four. Used Ferodo pads, was told their the same as OEM. Also swapped front calipers to D90. Made a huge improvement. But they wont fit a DII. | | | |
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Andy Hough


 | | 07/01/2009 3:45 PM |
Alert | I have good luck with the EBC Sport Dimpled/Slotted rotors and the greenstuff pads. I agree that the cold braking performance is poor, but once they warm up they grab like a son of a gun. I think I am running the Greenstuff 6000 series pads. I installed the Sport Rotor kit from Atlantic British. I think I would have used red stuff pads if I did this again, for the improved cold braking performance.
I am going to a drilled and slotted rotor on my Eclipse, most likely the EBC's, and red stuff pads. | | Dirt Toy: 1987 Ford Bronco Eddie Bauer Edition Track Toy: 2001 Mitsubishi Eclipse GT Spyder Driver: 2009 Chevrolet HHR LT | |
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Andy Berglund Moderator


 | | 07/02/2009 12:56 AM |
Alert | Posted By Craig Miller on 06/30/2009 7:44 PM
OEM is Brembo solid rotors.
Are we talking about front or rear brakes on a D2? OEM should be vented on the front. Otherwise, carry on.
Also, I'm still a big fan of Greenstuff pads. They are, by definition, designed to wear more quickly than stock pads. I like the bias towards road use that they have since that's where I spend most of my time (unfortunately) and coming down mountain passes, etc, is when I'll probably need them most. Off road, low speed stuff I'm not as concerned about. It is my reasoning that if I need more brake and I don't have it in an off road situation, it's probably because I have lost traction rather than over-driven my brakes. A | | I am loving the Gilmore Girls-Scott Williams | |
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Craig Miller Site Admin


 | | 07/02/2009 1:17 AM |
Alert | Interesting Andy. I was told by Biggs in 2004 that they were solid, but I just looked it up and sure enough they are vented and drilled. I just ordered an OEM equivelant replacement rotor through WorldPac and it was a solid rotor... weird.
| | My Overland Adventure Blog | |
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Andy Berglund Moderator


 | | 07/02/2009 1:22 AM |
Alert | I wasn't clear-when I read "vented" in an OEM app I mean that there is a space between the inner and outer braking surface of the rotor that has channels forged into it to vent hot air. I don't mean like the EBC or similar drilled, dimpled, or slotted type of ventilation.
Anyhow, AFAIK, the D2 came stock with vented rotors on the front, solid in the rear. I couldn't imagine the suck that would come along with solid rotors all around. I'd double check the dimensions on that rotor you got Craig and confirm that it will fit. Honestly though I suggest getting the vented style. I imagine that brake fade would set in much earlier with solid rotors on a protracted downhill slope.
A | | I am loving the Gilmore Girls-Scott Williams | |
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Craig Miller Site Admin


 | | 07/02/2009 8:07 AM |
Alert | Thanks for clarifying... by vented I meant that mine aren't drilled, slotted, or dimpled. Using your description, which is probably the correct description, my front rotors are vented.
Per my Land Rover manual, I downshift when decending long downhill slopes.  Craig
| | My Overland Adventure Blog | |
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Ben Bailey


 | | 07/02/2009 8:54 AM |
Alert | I wasn't clear-when I read "vented" in an OEM app I mean that there is a space between the inner and outer braking surface of the rotor that has channels forged into it to vent hot air. I don't mean like the EBC or similar drilled, dimpled, or slotted type of ventilation. That's what I was referring to. The space between the inner and outer surfaces. On the DI's and RRC's I think they actually were "solid". I just went down the street and ordered whatever Shipman has. He's getting it delivered this morning, so I'll see what they are when I get them! After asking around -- yes, I could have gone with an "upgrade", but except in cases where you get the most expensive options, it seems that people find that their Rover still stops fine with OEM stuff! I'll post back with a review. | | RBBailey Images Rovers | |
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jack lester


 | | 07/02/2009 9:28 AM |
Alert | To my knowledge RRC's equipped with ABS had vented front rotors and non-ABS classics were solid. I am not certain, but I believe all North American Discos came with front vented rotors. I swapped in vented rotors from a later classic into my 89 classic. The only issue was the spacing in the caliper to account for the thicker rotor. I purchased greenstuff pads and EBC slotted/dimpled rotors for my p38, but have not installed them yet. All of your feedback is making me wonder if i made a mistake... I have always been pleased with the braking in that vehicle, so we'll see how I like my new brakes. -jack | | | |
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Mike Rupp


 | | 07/02/2009 2:07 PM |
Alert | | Jack, none of the North American Discos came with solid front rotors. In regards to the Greenstuff pads, unless you have a situation like I do where I live at the top of a steep hill and have to contend with the pad warming up issue, I wouldn't be concerned with them. Once they are warmed up, they brake quite well. | | WZ7V
Study for amateur radio exams here
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jack lester


 | | 07/02/2009 7:26 PM |
Alert | Mike, thanks for the comforting words about my new brakes. That particular vehicle is about 99% on road, so should be fine, however, I live on a 500 hundred foot hill with steep grades to get back down, so should be interesting... About the disco brakes, I believe you and I are in complete agreement, I just wanted to leave a little room for some weird exception that someone here may have experienced, like Scott W. perhaps. He is known to be quite exceptional. -jack | | | |
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