| Author | Messages | |
Ben Bailey


 | | 07/02/2009 5:38 PM |
Alert | I'm having an issue with my ever so simple brake job on the front of the DII. I was so proud of myself to get it done in about 40 minutes as I got the pistons backed up and around the new brake pads and lowered the caliper down..... then it took me another 1.5 hours to figure out why the caliper won't go all the way down! It fits over the new pads, the rotor is as far onto the hub as I can get it, but it stops about 1/2 inch short of where that lower bolt holds the swing-up caliper down. I've been carefully staring at it, switching pads, comparing the new pads to the old, putting it up and down... nothing works. If I pull the pads out, I can put the caliper all the way down, but that is only because it can slide inboard 1/2 inch and line up correctly. Something isn't right. I've done this job before, and I can't remember anything like this, no tricks, nothing, to get it to work. Also, the truck is stuck halfway in the garage, so I can't close the garage door! | | RBBailey Images Rovers | |
| Ben Bailey


 | | 07/02/2009 6:10 PM |
Alert | | What is happening is the pads are about 1/4" too thick! I have no clue what to do about this. Can't take them back, can't get the car back on it's wheels -- actually, I suppose I could slip the old pads back in there just to push the car out of the garage so I can close the door. | | RBBailey Images Rovers | |
| Craig Miller Site Admin


 | | 07/02/2009 6:28 PM |
Alert | Ben,
I had the same problem a while back and Dan straightened me out. It's very easy to fix. I thought I had written it up, but I can't find it.
The pistons are distended and you need to push it (rear)/them(front) back in: - Remove the cap on the brake fluid reservoir. - Open the caliper up - remove the pads. - Get a clamp and s-l-o-w-l-y press the piston back in, one at a time. - Once it's flush, put the pads back in and you are good to go. | | My Overland Adventure Blog | |
| Craig Miller Site Admin


 | | 07/02/2009 6:40 PM |
Alert | I realize now that I never wrote up the article. Here are a couple of photos: 1. Before 2. Pushing the piston back in (after removing the reservoir cap) 3. After |



| My Overland Adventure Blog | |
| Ben Bailey


 | | 07/02/2009 6:42 PM |
Alert | Yeah, I did that, they are as far in as they go.
I've given up, the pads are obviously defective. I put all the old parts back on and I've pushed the truck back out into the driveway so I can try again tomorrow.
You know what was literally going through my head as I swung that caliper down just before it stopped short? "Wow, this might be the first time I've ever had a job go off without a hitch!"
Literally, those exact words were running through my head, then, clunk! Stop. I've been working on my trucks for 9 years now, I've never once had a job that goes without something pulling me to a complete stop -- I'm probably the only one you'll ever meet that takes two days to do a front axle brake job on a Disco II. | | RBBailey Images Rovers | |
| Todd Eliason Moderator


 | | 07/02/2009 7:54 PM |
Alert | Ben, I doubt the parts are defective, I ran into the same issue and the caliper itself needs to be spread as well as the piston. As Craig said, relieving the pressure in the lines helps, but you will need to spread the caliper as well as the piston. It's not like a brake job I have done before and is a PITA. My kids still hide when I say I am working on the brakes.  I think I actually removed the piston part of the caliper from the retaining part of the caliper to get it to work... It was a while ago butI think that solved the issue. The rubber boots that hold the 2 parts of the caliper came off but once it was one the disk, they went back on fairly easily. | | Who put the Goat in there? | |
| Todd Eliason Moderator


 | | 07/02/2009 8:19 PM |
Alert | Sorry for the poor paint illustration... Notice howCraig took the two parts of the caliper apart to get the piston fully in, see if you can mount the caliper and then attach the other part of the caliper. |

| Who put the Goat in there? | |
| Ben Bailey


 | | 07/02/2009 9:01 PM |
Alert | Well, I'll try again tomorrow before taking the pads back. (I've done it before, I did this job on my '03 two years ago, and I didn't have this problem.)
The pistons were in as far as possible, the cap was off the reservoir, I loosened the top bolt to give it more room than it naturally has when extending. Normally, you wouldn't have to loosen that bolt to put new pads in -- I'm still 1/4 inch from having the caliper far enough in-board to be able to close down. In fact, I used a rubber mallet to pound the caliper open as far as it would go with everything loosened up to the ends of the threads on the bolts.
By the way, Craig, your calipers are looking very nice in those pictures, quite the presentable calipers you've got there. I'm going to have to clean mine up a bit now. Maybe I'll paint them yellow! | | RBBailey Images Rovers | |
| Ben Bailey


 | | 07/02/2009 10:58 PM |
Alert | | By the way, it just occurred to me that I've been explaining this in a way that might make you think I'm doing something I'm not. The issue isn't that I can't get the caliper wide enough, the issue is that it is too wide open to properly swing down to line up with that bottom slide pin/bolt thing. | | RBBailey Images Rovers | |
| Ryan Hall


 | | 07/03/2009 9:03 AM |
Alert | Ben, I had the same issue a couple months ago with my Montero. I ended up braking the bleeder loose, that didn't help. then I took the brake line off and got the caliper to be fully open. After inspection of the brake line...guess what I found at the end of the line? Moisture. $%&#@** is what i was saying at that very moment. After calming down and thinking through my issue, I just did a full drain and bleed. After I was done there, poof the calipers fit the rotors like magic. Which brings me to another "Things that make ya go hmmm". I love my Rover, but I am curious why LRs need new brakes and rotors so often. My Montero has 205k on the clock and the rotors have been replaced once. Pads at about every 60-70k. Why do LRs go through brakes and rotors so much? | | Ryan | |
| Ben Bailey


 | | 07/03/2009 11:45 AM |
Alert | Nope, not the calipers. I did get it fixed, I do feel stupid, and I did take pictures of the simple thing that... well, it was so simple that when I did the brakes on my '03 it was so obvious that I didn't even think about it. It is odd that the box does have the wrong part number on it though.... Anyway, done, tested, work fine.
Ryan, one of the reasons Rovers need brake jobs so much that I've heard in the past is that Rovers are heavy, and they purposefully built the rotors and pads a bit soft to compensate. They grab more, produce more dust, and need replacing more often than others.
I'll post up pictures and explain when I get back later.
Thanks for the help guys. | | RBBailey Images Rovers | |
| Ryan McDonald


 | | 07/16/2009 8:15 AM |
Alert | BUMP?
| | Going to sleep is the easy part... | |
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