Toby Pond
 | | 02/28/2010 7:11 PM |
 Alert | | You can test a coil by measuring the resistance across the primary and secondary terminals, and across both secondary terminals. There should be the correct values for both listed in the manual? Or just check the web. good luck. | | | |
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Brett Curry
| | 03/01/2010 5:51 AM |
Alert | Thank you all for the help. Looks like I need to do a bit of research on testing the coil (electrically challenged but now have a good place to start), speed sensor. I will also look at finding an ignitition amp I could borrow. Anyone know if the MSD blaster 2 coil works in these by themselves, or can I only use that coil if I go with the entire MSD box? Anyway, I'll be out of town for a few days. I will update soon. Please keep any other ideas coming. | | | |
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Todd Eliason
Moderator
| | 03/01/2010 8:29 AM |
Alert | Posted By Dan Cronin on 02/27/2010 2:48 PM
How old are your cats?
Fluffy is 7 and Mr. Wiggles is 5. But they are both accounted for and no fur in the engine bay. | |
Who put the Goat in there? | |
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Dan Cronin
Advisor
| | 03/01/2010 9:02 AM |
Alert | | Whew :-) | |
Realignment in process... | |
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Scott Williams
Title Sponsor
| | 03/01/2010 10:34 AM |
Alert | Brett,
No it was someone from the Portland store. :-) Don't get anything from MSD if you plan on retaining the Lucas distributor. It is a complete watse of money as the distributor cannot handle the increase in load and already has a hard time maintaining steady timing. If you want to change or upgrade go with a Mallory Unilite distributor and a matched coil. Otherwise leave it Lucas. The ignition module makes sense for your problem, I can't be 100% obviously without seeing it, but the fact that you still have a 2 pin module makes it much more likely. Don't bother with the GM piece, again a waste of energy. Get a genuine Lucas 3 pin module kit and also replace your coil. These MUST be done together as a faulty module will take out the coil. The 2 pin modules were sketchy and the 3 pin seems to be fairly long lived. You can relocate it to the driver's side head lamp using a jumper lead and bracket from a '95 discovery or LWB. Not necessary but it does keep it cooler. :-)
Scott | |
"I could never work here with you guys. All I would do is sniff markers and throw things into the streets." Rick Lindgren | |
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Isaac Fain
| | 03/01/2010 1:24 PM |
Alert | | to echo what scott's already said, i tried the MSD route and it was a Very Bad Thing. stick with genuine stock stuff and just get it running. trying to fit the normal V8 improvements with the components on these trucks just end up being a waste of time and money. the blaster II nearly blasted everything else out of my truck. avoid. | |
crashed '97 Discovery I - "Calypso" | |
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Brett Curry
| | 03/01/2010 7:25 PM |
Alert | Very good! Looks like a 3 pin amp is in my future along with a new coil (lucas on both). To replace the ignition amp is it necessary to remove the entire distributor? Looks like two tiny screws that may be challenging to get to? I like the relocation idea, but not the price tag of the one from AB. More research to do?
Now I just need to get back from Canada so I can have it to look at.
I think everyone is the country is hung over today. Pretty amusing! | | | |
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Scott Williams
Title Sponsor
| | 03/02/2010 8:42 AM |
Alert | Brett,
you can remove the vacuum advance unit and then rotate the distributor for access. However, it is a fiddly job to reinstall the advance. You are probably best to mark the distributor for reference and removing it. Test the vac advance while the distributor is out. If it's faulty now's the time to replace it. :-) | |
"I could never work here with you guys. All I would do is sniff markers and throw things into the streets." Rick Lindgren | |
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Tom Thomas
| | 03/09/2010 8:08 PM |
Alert | | Brett, any word yet? | | | |
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Brett Curry
| | 03/10/2010 12:49 PM |
Alert | | None yet. Went out and "tested" my new sliders last weekend. Good time. Didn't stumble at all on the trail. Would love to find someone with a coil I could "borrow" for starters. Then go from there. I will update once I get a chance to dive back in.... | | | |
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Tom Thomas
| | 03/10/2010 5:42 PM |
Alert | | funny, I don't see any pics of "new sliders" ;) | | | |
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Brett Curry
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Dave Waters
| | 03/11/2010 12:54 PM |
Alert | | I remember that trail, almost tipped my truck on the side. | |
Truck with pinstriping. | |
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Brett Curry
| | 05/03/2010 7:22 AM |
Alert | Another update. I've been trying to track down someone to borrow a coil from to see if that's it before ordering a new one. The trout were calling from Yakima yesterday so I loaded up the family and headed over the hill. Didn't even make it to I90 and the stumbling started. Pulled over in north bend and unplugged the MAF to further test this theory.
Not one stumble the entire way, there or back. Actually ran great! (except the exhaust smell, and knowing my cats were taking the brunt of it).
My thought is: If it were ignition issue (coil, amp, etc) wouldn't it still stumble with an unplugged MAF?
The obvious answer in my mind is a bad MAF. I've got two that act the exact same but it wouldn't be the first time I bought something used that had the same issue as the old one?
So that leaves me with a bad MAF?
or....and this is where I need help
Could unplugging the MAF (and the check engine light and code) change something else? I don't know if this truck has a true limp home mode like the disco does. Would this condition take another sensor, such as fuel temp out of the loop so in fact it's causing the stumbling until the MAF condition eliminates it from the ECU.
Guess I need to understand what the ECU is doing in this fault condition.
And does anyone have a MAF I can borrow for a day or two?
Thanks all | | | |
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Scott Williams
Title Sponsor
| | 05/03/2010 8:38 AM |
Alert | Posted By Brett Curry on 05/03/2010 7:22 AM
Another update. I've been trying to track down someone to borrow a coil from to see if that's it before ordering a new one. The trout were calling from Yakima yesterday so I loaded up the family and headed over the hill. Didn't even make it to I90 and the stumbling started. Pulled over in north bend and unplugged the MAF to further test this theory.
Not one stumble the entire way, there or back. Actually ran great! (except the exhaust smell, and knowing my cats were taking the brunt of it).
My thought is: If it were ignition issue (coil, amp, etc) wouldn't it still stumble with an unplugged MAF?
The obvious answer in my mind is a bad MAF. I've got two that act the exact same but it wouldn't be the first time I bought something used that had the same issue as the old one?
So that leaves me with a bad MAF?
or....and this is where I need help
Could unplugging the MAF (and the check engine light and code) change something else? I don't know if this truck has a true limp home mode like the disco does. Would this condition take another sensor, such as fuel temp out of the loop so in fact it's causing the stumbling until the MAF condition eliminates it from the ECU.
Guess I need to understand what the ECU is doing in this fault condition.
And does anyone have a MAF I can borrow for a day or two?
Thanks all Brett, The ECU has no control over the ignition system. By unplugging the MAF the fuel system went nearly full rich. If you have not checked or had the fuel pressure checked I would first before condemning the MAF. The Lucas MAF is a fairly robust sensor. If you don't have the adapter to check the pressure ask Dan. If no go there take it to Gord'n and Lamorna. You need some known quantities or you will be shotgunning parts unecessarily.  Scott | |
"I could never work here with you guys. All I would do is sniff markers and throw things into the streets." Rick Lindgren | |
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Brett Curry
| | 05/03/2010 9:27 AM |
Alert | Great info, Thanks!
Basically fully rich condition with unplugged MAF may point to a fuel problem. I'll get some numbers soon, either Dan or Gordn.
I'll update once I track it down.
At least my little experiment told me I have a healthy coil and amp?
Focused on Fuel and moving forward! | | | |
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singingcamel singingcamel
| | 05/19/2010 9:33 AM |
Alert | Hows your fuel filter?esay and cheap fix. This could cause your stumbly issues as well . also a weak and tired fuel pump can cause stumbly check your connection at the pump for corrosion.
Take your cap off and twist your rotor counter clockwise, does it return? You may have messed up the counter weights in the dizzy if you had a hard time removing your rotor.By pulling up hard on the rotor you can dislodge the weights , this will affect the vaccum advance and and throw the rotor out of wack which could cause the stumblig. Good Luck | | | |
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Brett Curry
| | 05/19/2010 9:44 AM |
Alert | Thanks for the notes. Fuel filter is new, hoped that would do it but to no avail. Where is the connection for the pump? Do I have to drop the tank (no access hatch in the 1990!) I'll try the twisting of the rotor. Rotor wasn't bad to get off but you never know. Still working on getting some fuel pressure numbers as well.
If it was the rotor, or a connection to the fuel pump it doesn't seem that unplugging the MAF (forcing ECU to "limp home mode" ie really rich) would solve it. Seems like it's fuel related but I always like knowing other things to check. | | | |
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singingcamel singingcamel
| | 05/19/2010 11:10 AM |
Alert | Unfortunately you will have to drop the tank to check, unlike the discos. I have heard of folks cutting a access panel , you would have to go thru the rear floor to do it. (no flame). Fuel pumps seem to poop out around 80 100 k and the connections are noted to corrode easy. | | | |
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