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Subject: White Rim Trail and Around

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Nate Skate



07/29/2010 9:26 PM Alert 

 Just back from a five week national parks/friends/relatives road trip with some overlanding type travel thrown in.  Southern Utah was the priority, but we also wandered around Oregon, New Mexico, Nevada, and Colorado.  

First stop was in the Owyhees where we met up with some friends we met on our last trip down there.  We used the Twin Springs Campground as a base camp and wandered way the heck back into hills to sort of a secret Shangri-La type valley with caves that had been inhabited by Native Americans for centuries. Possibly the coolest place in the Owyhees, but maybe too many rattlers to be Shangri-La.












Nate Skate



07/29/2010 9:35 PM Alert 

 On to Utah. Before the trip I realized that I'm a frustrated archeologist, so we stopped at an excellent paleontology and archeology museum in Price, highly recommend, before heading out to Nine Mile Canyon to see North America's best concentration of petroglyphs.









Nate Skate



07/29/2010 9:42 PM Alert 

 From there we zoomed off to Canyonlands and the White Rim Trail. In the spring and the fall you need to make camping reservations a year in advance. In the middle of June I was able to walk right up to the reservations desk in Islands in the Sky Visitor center and make a reservation for the most popular campsite, White Crack, for the next day. If you can handle the heat, you can beat the crowds. I was, however, worried about the Jeep overheating pulling the trailer up long rough grades in almost 100 degree heat. We left the trailer in a campground and hit the trail with only a $20 Walmart tent.












Nate Skate



07/29/2010 9:45 PM Alert 

 I was not disappointed with the scenery over the 100 miles of this 4WD trail, it was truly amazing from beginning to end.  












Nate Skate



07/29/2010 9:52 PM Alert 

 98% of the trail could probably be done with a high clearance 2WD truck.  Low range was nice for the descent down the Schaeffer Trail. Murphy's Hogback was a pretty steep climb with a rocky ledge at the top.  Hardscrabble Hill was a really steep and loose climb on switchback shelf road with a scary ledge right before another  switchback.  We didn't take any pictures of the really scary parts because we were scared












Nate Skate



07/29/2010 9:59 PM Alert 
The temps were in the high 80's the first day and low 90's the second. For us, that's about the outside edge of what's tolerable for backcountry travel and camping. I'm glad we rushed down there, as the temps in the next few weeks were up close to a 100 and would stay there and above for most of the summer I imagine.

We messed around the Moab area for four or five days after that, going for short hikes and scenic drives. Never seen so many Jeep Wranglers in my life. Didn't see a single vehicle on any of the slick rock trails. Too dang hot.
Nate Skate



07/29/2010 10:11 PM Alert 

 Next stop was the Needles District of Canyonlands. The main campground there was great, so we parked the trailer there for three days and did some hikes and the Horse Canyon 4WD trip. The trail up Horse Canyon follows a deep sand wash up to some arches and the small Tower Ruins, one of my favorites ruins of the trip. A permit is required, and a ranger gives you all of the dire warnings about deep sand and so forth before they let you go in. They mentioned a water crossing as being the hardest part, but looking at all the sand around not seeing much water for days I didn't think much of it. They weren't kidding. With a little bit of a bow wave the water came over the hood, and with the locker engaged it still felt like we might not make it.  We didn't take any pictures of the water crossing because the first time it just looked like a big puddle that wasn't too deep.  The second time we were too scared

 

 












Nate Skate



07/29/2010 10:23 PM Alert 

 Next stop was Comb Ridge near Bluff.  Before we left I found an obscure hiking book that listed several hikes to Anasazi ruins on BLM land.  As you can imagine, fewer crowds and better access to ruins on BLM land compared to NP land.  It was a goal of mine to go to a place where I could touch, but not move or remove of course, 1000 year old pot shards and something like a corn cob.  At Comb Ridge we found several such places and had them all to ourselves, although the mosquitoes and heat chased us off after a short time.  

We camped at Valley of the Gods, the poor man's or overlander friendly version of Monument Valley.  Thanks for the tip Brian!  Brian took better pictures there.  It was dang hot there, however.  At this point the heat became the motivating factor to move on.   












Nate Skate



07/29/2010 10:29 PM Alert 

 We went to Santa Fe for some cultural time and then Mesa Verde and a bunch of other national parks.  We hoped to do the Medano Pass 4WD trip at Great Sand Dunes National Monument but the trail was closed due to fire.  This was the coolest expedition vehicle we saw.  The Australian owner was trotting off to the showers at Mesa Verde just as we were hitting the road, so I didn't get a chance to chat. 






Nate Skate



07/29/2010 10:40 PM Alert 

 Heading north again, we visited friends and family in northern Colorado. The heat had followed us, with temps near a 100, so we didn't do a lot of mountain exploring. On the way back through Utah we did manage to camp in an Aspen grove, which was another goal of mine for the trip. We had hoped to explore the area around Great Basin National Park in Nevada, but is too dang hot so kept moving on and camped at Ruby Lake again. Found some really cool Jeep trails in the Ruby Mountains that I would like to explore some day. We spent the last night on Alvord Playa, a great way to end the trip.












Nate Skate



07/29/2010 10:54 PM Alert 

 The M101 trailer worked great on this trip for the most part.  It was really nice to bring more stuff and to just leave the tent and everything set up at camp and then do unfettered day trips.  I removed two leafs from the massive leaf pack before we left and put new shocks on, which made for a surprisingly supple suspension that soaked up washboard and potholes better than the Jeep. I really had to flog the poor Jeep to get it to pull the trailer up hills and mountains, however.  I often fantasized about driving a sports car on the same roads. For regional trips I think I'll keep using the trailer, but for the next real big trip I might consider an Oztent or something of the sort.  I guess there is no perfect camping solution.






Jay Erickson



07/29/2010 11:02 PM Alert 
Great trip Nate, thanks for sharing!

Traded in all my project vehicles for my 2009 Xterra, not an ounce of buyers remorse.
forrest stevens
Member Sponsor


07/29/2010 11:28 PM Alert 
Wow.... Looks like an amazing trip! Great pictures!
Todd Eliason
Moderator


07/29/2010 11:36 PM Alert 

Awesome, Thank you for sharing!


Who put the Goat in there?
Craig Miller
Site Admin


07/29/2010 11:44 PM Alert 
Absolutely FANTASTIC trip report!

"100 mile long Jeep trail" - sometimes I want to move out of the PNW.


My Overland Adventure Blog
Nate Skate



07/30/2010 8:44 AM Alert 


"100 mile long Jeep trail" - sometimes I want to move out of the PNW.
 


Yeah, I'm tempted to move to the west side of Colorado. Rockies on one side, Moab and surrounds on the other, and you don't have to be Mormon. 

Morris Yarnell



07/30/2010 9:27 AM Alert 

 Nate et al,

If you want great views, mountains, desert, and rain like you are used to up there...Colorado is your bet.

Tom Lowell



07/30/2010 10:33 AM Alert 

Wow, Nate, absolutely...wow.

Some of those pictures are just stunning.  How about a slideshow at my house this fall after the time change?

Craig Miller
Site Admin


07/30/2010 10:57 AM Alert 
Posted By Tom Lowell on 07/30/2010 10:33 AM

Wow, Nate, absolutely...wow.

Some of those pictures are just stunning.  How about a slideshow at my house this fall after the time change?


x2 - or a little further south so some of the Seattle area guys can make the drive up too.


My Overland Adventure Blog
Dan Cronin
Advisor


07/30/2010 11:28 AM Alert 
Totally inspiring Nate, thanks for the share!

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